Professional Show Car Paint Preparation and Finishing Guide

Ensure the vehicle surface is below 25°C. In summer, this usually requires the car to be stored indoors overnight. Use an infrared thermometer to check panel temps. Perform a 'baggy test' by placing your hand in a thin plastic sandwich bag and sliding it over the paint; any roughness felt indicates embedded contaminants that must be removed before polishing.

Apply an iron fallout remover to dry paint. This breaks down sintered brake dust and metallic particles from industrial fallout. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes until the chemical turns purple (indicating reaction), but do not allow it to dry. Rinse thoroughly with a pressure washer (minimum 1500 PSI) using a 40-degree nozzle tip.

Use two buckets for the body (Wash/Rinse) and a dedicated third bucket for wheels. Use a high-lubricity pH-neutral soap (30ml per 10L of water). This ensures that any remaining red dust or grit is trapped in the bottom of the rinse bucket rather than being dragged across the paint, which would create deep scratches.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, glide the bar over the paint in straight lines. This removes 'above-surface' contaminants like tree sap and overspray. Work in 40cm x 40cm sections. If the clay bar drops on the ground, discard it immediately as it will have picked up grit from the floor.

Use 18mm automotive masking tape to cover all rubber seals, unpainted plastic trim, and badges. Polishing compounds can stain textured plastics and the high-speed rotation of a DA pad can burn through rubber window seals in seconds. This step saves hours of cleanup later.

Select a 50cm x 50cm area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive combination (Finishing Polish + Foam Finishing Pad). Run the DA at speed 4 for 4-5 passes. Wipe with IPA and inspect. If defects remain, move to a heavier compound. Never use more abrasion than necessary to preserve the clear coat thickness.

Apply 4 pea-sized drops of heavy compound to a wool or microfiber cutting pad. Work in a cross-hatch pattern (up/down, then left/right). Move the polisher at a rate of 2-3cm per second. This stage removes deep swirls and oxidation caused by UV exposure. Target a 80-90% defect removal rate.

After every section, clean your pad using a pad brush or compressed air. Spent polish and removed paint (clear coat dust) build up in the pores of the pad, causing heat spikes and reducing cutting efficiency. Switch to a fresh pad every 2-3 panels to ensure consistent results.

Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This removes the 'haze' or 'tick marks' left by the heavy cutting stage. Use light pressure and slow down the machine speed slightly. This step is what creates the mirror-like reflections and 'depth' required for show judging.

Mist a 20% IPA solution or a dedicated panel prep spray over the entire vehicle. Use a fresh, high-GSM microfibre to wipe away all polishing oils. This is critical; if any oils remain, the ceramic coating or sealant will fail to bond, leading to premature failure in the summer heat.

Apply 10-15 drops of ceramic coating to a suede applicator block. Apply to a 60cm x 60cm section in a cross-hatch pattern. Wait for the coating to 'flash' (it will look like oil on water or begin to bead). This usually takes 30-90 seconds depending on humidity. Buff off gently with a low-pile microfibre.

Immediately follow the first wipe with a second, clean microfibre towel to ensure no 'high spots' (dark, oily patches) remain. In high temperatures, the flash time is significantly reduced, so work in smaller sections if the garage is above 30°C.

Apply a dedicated trim sealant to all exterior plastics. In Australia, UV rays turn black plastics grey very quickly. A high-quality trim restorer with UV inhibitors will darken the plastic and provide a hydrophobic layer that prevents red dust from staining the pores.

Apply a ceramic-based wheel sealant to the rims to prevent brake dust etching. For tyres, use a water-based dressing rather than silicone-based. Silicone dressings sling onto the paint when driving and can brown (bloom) the rubber when exposed to high heat.

Clean all glass with a dedicated glass cleaner and a waffle-weave towel. For show cars, use a glass polish to remove water spots caused by bore water or salt spray. Apply a rain repellent to the windscreen to ensure clarity during sudden summer storms.

The vehicle must remain indoors and dry for at least 12-24 hours. Do not wash the car with chemicals for 7 days. The coating needs this time to fully cross-link and harden. Exposure to rain or dew during the first 12 hours can cause spotting or 'clouding' in the finish.