Professional Show Car Paint Correction and Protection Guide

Ensure the vehicle is undercover and the panels are cool to the touch (below 30°C). In the Australian summer, this often requires working in the early morning or evening. Use an infrared thermometer to verify. Setup your lighting to hit the panels at 45-degree angles to highlight texture and defects.

Apply iron remover to dry paint to dissolve sintered brake dust. Allow to dwell for 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry). Rinse, then apply tar remover to the lower thirds of the vehicle to dissolve bitumen softened by hot Aussie roads. This prevents these hard particles from entering your polishing pads later.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, move in straight lines over the paint. This removes 'above-surface' contaminants like tree sap and industrial fallout. Periodically check the bar; if you see red dust or grit, knead the clay to a clean surface immediately to avoid scratching.

Use high-quality automotive masking tape (e.g., 3M Blue or 233+) to cover all rubber seals, unpainted plastics, and badge edges. This prevents 'white-out' from polish residue and protects delicate trim from the high-speed rotation of the polishing pads.

Select a 40cm x 40cm area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive combination (Finishing Polish + Yellow Foam). Work the polish for 4-6 passes. Wipe and inspect with LED light. If swirls remain, only then move up to a heavier compound. This preserves maximum clear coat thickness.

Using a microfibre cutting pad and heavy compound, apply 4 pea-sized drops. Work in small sections (50cm x 50cm). Use slow arm speed and moderate downward pressure. In 40°C heat, you may need to add a mist of distilled water to the pad to extend the 'open time' of the polish.

Clean your pad after every single section using a pad brush or compressed air. In Australia's dusty environment, spent polish and removed paint residue build up quickly, which causes 'pigtail' scratches if not cleared immediately.

Switch to a finishing foam pad and ultra-fine polish. This stage removes the 'haze' left by compounding. Use lighter pressure and slightly faster arm speed. This is where the 'show car' depth is created by smoothing the microscopic peaks and valleys of the paint.

Wipe the entire vehicle twice with a 50% Isopropyl Alcohol solution or dedicated panel prep. This removes polishing oils that hide defects. If the paint looks perfect under the LED after this step, it is ready for the coating. Any remaining oils will prevent the ceramic from bonding.

Apply 10-15 drops of ceramic coating to a suede applicator block. Apply to a small section (30cm x 30cm) in a cross-hatch pattern. In Australian summer conditions, the 'flash time' (when the coating rainbows) may be as short as 30-60 seconds. Do not wait too long.

Use Towel 1 to remove the bulk of the coating residue. Use Towel 2 (fresh and clean) to buff the surface to a high shine. Check for 'high spots' (dark, oily patches) using your LED light. High spots must be leveled within minutes or they will require machine polishing to remove.

For maximum UV protection against the Australian sun, apply a second layer of coating after a minimum of 2 hours, but before 12 hours. This increases the sacrificial layer thickness and ensures total coverage of the substrate.

Apply a dedicated glass coating to the windscreen and side windows. This is vital for coastal driving as it prevents salt spray and mineral deposits from etching into the glass during high-heat days.

Using the remaining ceramic coating, coat the wheel faces. This prevents hot brake dust from burning into the wheel finish—a common issue during spirited summer driving or heavy traffic in major cities.

Keep the vehicle indoors and completely dry for at least 12-24 hours. The coating takes approximately 7 days to fully cross-link and reach maximum hardness. Avoid washing the car with any chemicals during this first week.