Comprehensive Show Car Paint Correction and Protection Guide

Never work on a surface that is hot to the touch. In Australian summer, this means starting at 6:00 AM or working in a climate-controlled garage. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure panel temps are below 30°C. If panels are hot, chemical flash-off will occur, leading to permanent staining and ineffective cleaning.

Clean wheels first using a non-acidic wheel cleaner and iron remover. This prevents brake dust and metallic particles from splashing onto already-cleaned paint later. Use a dedicated bucket and brushes to agitate the inner barrels and wheel faces, rinsing thoroughly with a pressure washer.

Apply snow foam and dwell for 5 minutes (out of direct sun). Rinse, then perform a two-bucket contact wash using a microfibre mitt. While the car is wet, spray the iron remover over all surfaces. Wait 3 minutes for the purple reaction—indicating dissolved iron—then rinse. This removes the 'red dust' and industrial fallout that causes oxidation.

Using plenty of lubricant, glide the fine-grade clay bar over the paint. This removes bonded contaminants like tree sap and overspray that chemical washes miss. The surface should feel 'glass smooth.' If the clay picks up red residue, you are successfully removing embedded outback dust. Fold the clay frequently to expose a clean surface.

Use 18mm automotive masking tape to cover all rubber seals, unpainted plastic trim, and badges. Polishing pads spinning at high RPM will instantly burn or whiten plastic trim. Proper masking ensures you can polish right to the edge of the metal panels without risking damage to the weatherstripping.

Every paint system is different. Start with your least aggressive combo (finishing polish and a foam finishing pad) on a 40x40cm section of the bonnet. Inspect with your LED lamp. If swirls remain, step up to a medium compound. This 'least aggressive first' approach preserves precious clear coat thickness.

Using a compound and a microfiber or heavy foam pad, work in small sections. Apply 4 pea-sized drops. Move the DA polisher in a cross-hatch pattern (horizontal then vertical passes) at speed setting 4-5. Apply moderate downward pressure and move at a rate of 2-3cm per second. Wipe residue immediately.

Switch to a fine finishing polish and a soft foam pad. This step removes the 'haze' left by heavy compounding and brings out the maximum depth and gloss. Use lower pressure and slightly faster arm movement. This is where the 'show car' clarity is truly created, especially on dark Australian colours like deep blues or blacks.

Polishes contain oils that hide remaining scratches. Spray a 15% IPA solution onto a clean microfibre and wipe every panel twice. This 'strips' the paint bare, ensuring the surface is ready for the ceramic coating to bond chemically. If the towel 'grabs,' the surface is clean; if it glides, oils remain.

Apply 10-12 drops of ceramic coating to a suede applicator block. Apply to a 50x50cm area in a cross-hatch pattern. In 30°C+ heat, the 'flash time' (when the coating beads or rainbows) may be as short as 30-60 seconds. Do not wait too long, or the coating will become 'gummy' and impossible to level.

Use Towel 1 to remove the bulk of the coating residue with light pressure. Immediately follow with Towel 2 (a clean, high-GSM plush microfibre) to buff the area to a high shine. Check from multiple angles with your LED light to ensure no 'high spots' (dark, oily-looking patches) remain.

The vehicle must remain dry for at least 12-24 hours. In a professional setting, infrared lamps are used to bake the coating at 60°C for 15 minutes per panel. For home enthusiasts in summer, the ambient heat helps, but keep the car indoors to prevent dust or dew from settling on the uncured resin.

Apply a dedicated glass sealant to the windscreen and side windows. This improves visibility during sudden summer storms and prevents salt crusting in coastal regions. Apply trim restorer to plastics to provide UV blockers that prevent the 'fading' common in high-UV environments.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing for a satin finish. Avoid silicone-based 'slingy' dressings which attract red dust. Perform a final walk-around with the LED light, checking door shuts and gaps for any leftover polish residue or dust.