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Tools & Equipment intermediate 4 min read

Pro Detailer Gear & Pre-Start Checklist

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Ready to step up from a basic bucket wash? This is the gear I actually use to fight off Aussie UV and red dust without trashing the paint.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 6 March 2026
What You'll Learn
Pro Detailer Gear & Pre-Start Checklist

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Right, so you've mastered the basic wash and now you want to get serious. After 15 years in the trade, I've seen too many blokes try to 'detail' a car with a dirty old sponge and some dish soap, don't be that guy. This list covers the advanced kit you need to handle our harsh conditions, from coastal salt to that stubborn red dust that gets everywhere.

01

Let's Get Stuck In

Look, detailing in the Aussie heat is a different beast. I once tried to polish a black Commodore in 35-degree heat under a tin shed, absolute nightmare, the polish dried instantly. Don't make my mistakes; get your gear sorted first and work smart.
02

The 'Pro-Grade' Kit List

What You'll Need

0/9
Dual Action (DA) Polisher — Don't bother with cheap rotaries unless you want swirl city. A 15mm throw DA is the sweet spot.
Iron Remover (Decon Spray) — Essential for coastal cars. I reckon Bowden's Own Wheely Clean or Gtechniq W6 are top shelf.
Synthetic Clay Mitt — Way faster than old-school clay bars. If you drop it, just rinse it off. (Unlike clay which you have to chuck).
High-Quality Cutting & Finishing Pads — Have at least 3 of each. A clogged pad is a useless pad.
Panel Prep (IPA Spray) — To strip oils before sealing. You can mix your own with Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water.
Ceramic-Infused Sealant — Gtechniq C2V3 is my go-to. It handles the UV better than any wax I've used.
LED Inspection Torch — Sunlight is a liar. You need a proper light to see if you've actually removed the scratches.
Plush Microfibre Towels (350+ GSM) — Get a 10-pack. You'll use 'em all. I'm picky about this, cheap ones scratch soft paint.
Boars Hair Brushes — For getting red dust out of window seals and badges.

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03

Pre-Start Checklist (Before You Touch The Paint)

What You'll Need

0/5
Shade Check — Is the panels cool to the touch? If not, wait. Never polish a hot bonnet.
Wind Direction — If it's gusty and blowing dust, pack it in. You'll just grind grit into the clearcoat.
Trim Masking — Tape off rubber and unpainted plastic. Getting polish stains off trim is a dog of a job.
Battery Health — If you're working with doors open, chuck a trickle charger on. Made that mistake on a Range Rover once, total pain.
Pad Inspection — Check for any grit or old dried polish from the last job.
04

Step-By-Step Execution

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Chemical Decon

Spray iron remover on dry paint. Let it bleed purple (5 mins) but don't let it dry. Rinse thoroughly to kill salt and fallout.

02

Mechanical Claying

Use plenty of lube and your clay mitt. This pulls out the 'grit' you feel when you run your hand over the paint. Essential for a smooth finish.

03

The Test Spot

Don't do the whole car yet. Pick a small area and find the lightest polish/pad combo that gets the job done. Save your clearcoat!

04

Section Pass

Work in 50cm x 50cm squares. Slow arm movement, light pressure. Let the machine do the hard yakka, not your shoulders.

05

Panel Wipe

Spray your IPA/Prep spray and wipe. This removes the polishing oils so you can see the true result and prep for the sealant.

06

Protection Layer

Apply your ceramic sealant. Work one panel at a time to ensure even coverage. This is your shield against the Aussie sun.

05

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Check the Crevices — Look for white polish residue in door handles and badges. Use a soft brush.
Glass Check — Did you get sealant overspray on the windscreen? It'll smear like crazy if you don't clean it.
Tyre Dressing — Make sure it's dry before you drive, otherwise, it'll sling all over your fresh paintwork.
The 'Sun' Test — Pull it out into the arvo sun and check for holograms from different angles.

Watch Out

Avoid 'All-In-One' products from the servo; they usually contain fillers that just hide scratches until the first rain. Also, watch out for bat droppings, they're acidic as hell and can etch through clearcoat in hours. If you see one, get it off immediately, even if you're mid-detail.

Expert Tip

If you're dealing with heavy red dust from a trip up north, use a leaf blower after washing but before drying with a towel. It gets the grit out of the mirrors and lights so it doesn't leak out and ruin your polishing stage later.

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