What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, you've just dropped a heap of cash on a new rig, so the last thing you want to do is swirl the paint on day one. Dealers are notorious for using old, dirty sponges that'll leave your car looking like it's been cleaned with a Brillo pad. This guide is all about setting a solid foundation for your car's life, especially with the brutal Aussie sun and dust we deal with every day.
First things first
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Half the Battle
Find some shade
Never wash a car in direct Aussie sun if you can help it. The water and soap will dry in seconds, leaving nasty water spots that are a nightmare to get off. If you can't get under a carport, do it early in the morning or late arvo.
Check the surface temp
Put your hand on the bonnet. If it's too hot to touch comfortably, it's too hot to wash. Give it a spray with the hose to cool it down first.
Set up your buckets
Fill one with soapy water and the other with plain water. This is the 'Two Bucket Method'. You wash a panel with the soapy one, then rinse your dirty mitt in the plain water before going back for more soap. Keeps the dirt out of your wash water.
Watch Out
The Step-by-Step Process
Wheels First
Always start with the wheels. They're the filthiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash brake dust back onto your clean paint. Spray your wheel cleaner, let it sit for a minute (don't let it dry!), and scrub with a soft brush.
The Pre-Rinse
Blast the car with water to get the loose grit off. If you've just come back from a trip to the beach or out past the Great Dividing Range, spend extra time in the arches to get the salt and red dust out.
Snow Foam (If you have it)
Cover the car in a thick layer of foam. Let it dwell for 5 minutes. This softens the dirt so it slides off. It's also just bloody satisfying to watch.
Decontamination
While the car is wet, spray your Iron Remover on the paint. You'll see it turn purple as it reacts with metal particles. Rinse it off thoroughly after 2-3 minutes. Don't skip this on a new car!
Contact Wash
Start from the top (the roof) and work your way down. Use very light pressure. The weight of the mitt is usually enough. Leave the bottom sills and bumpers for last, as they're the dirtiest.
Rinse Frequently
Rinse each panel as you finish it. Don't give the soap a chance to dry.
Final Rinse
Take the nozzle off the hose and let the water just 'flood' over the car. This helps the water sheet off, making drying much easier.
Drying
Lay your big microfibre towel across the bonnet or roof and just pull it towards you. Don't 'scrub' the car dry. If you've got a leaf blower, use that to get water out of the mirrors and badges.
Glass and Mirrors
Give the windows a wipe with a clean glass cloth. Use a bit of methylated spirits mixed with water (50/50) if you've got stubborn suction cup marks from the factory.
Tyre Dressing
Chuck some tyre shine on. Use an applicator pad so you don't get it on your rims. It's the finishing touch that makes the car look 'new' again.
The 'Baggy' Test
Watch Out
Protecting the Investment
Common Questions
Can't I just go to the automatic brush wash at the servo?
The dealer offered a 'Lifetime Protection' package for $2000. Is it worth it?
How often should I wash it?
What if I've already got some light scratches?
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