Keeping Your Rig Safe From The Harsh Aussie Summer

Never, ever wash a car in direct Feb sun. The water will spot, the soap will streak, and you'll end up worse off. Start early in the morning or late arvo, and keep the panels cool to the touch.

If you've just come back from a dusty trip, use a leaf blower or compressed air to blow out all the red dust from the door seals, window tracks, and fuel cap before you even touch it with water. Adding water to red dust just makes mud in hard-to-reach places.

Chuck the sprinkler under the car or use an underbody attachment. If you've been near the beach, you need to flush that salt out of the chassis rails properly.

Clean the wheels while the rest of the car is dry. If you do them last, the water on the paint will dry and leave spots. Use a dedicated brush to get into the barrels.

Hit the car with snow foam. Let it dwell for 5 minutes (don't let it dry!) to lift the loose grit. This is the best way to prevent 'swirl marks' which are just tiny scratches from you rubbing dirt into the paint.

Wash from the top down. Dip your mitt in the soapy bucket, wash a panel, then rinse it in the plain water bucket to drop the dirt. Easy as.

Spray your iron remover on the paint. If it turns purple, it's working. This dissolves tiny metal particles that fly off your brakes and rust into your paint. Rinse thoroughly after 2-3 minutes.

Run your hand over the clean, wet paint. If it feels like sandpaper, you need to clay it. Use plenty of lubricant and gently glide the clay over the surface until it feels smooth as glass. (Honestly, I prefer a clay mitt these days, it's way faster).

Give it one last rinse. Use a drying towel or a blower to get all the water out of the mirrors and badges. If you leave water sitting in the sun, it'll etch the paint.

This is a step most people skip. Use a diluted alcohol mix to wipe every panel. This removes any leftover oils or soap residue so your protection can actually bond to the clear coat.

If you're using a ceramic sealant, apply it to one panel at a time using a microfibre applicator. Work in small sections, maybe 50cm x 50cm. I reckon it's better to do two thin coats than one thick, messy one.

Wait for the product to 'flash' (it'll look like beads or a rainbow skin). Usually takes 30-90 seconds. Don't wait too long or it'll be a nightmare to buff off.

Use two towels. One to take the bulk of the product off, and a second, fresh one for the final buff. This ensures no streaks.

Don't forget the windscreen. A good rain repellent like Rain-X or a dedicated glass coating makes those summer thunderstorms much safer to drive through.

Wipe down all your black plastics with a UV protectant. If you don't, that Aussie sun will turn them grey/white in a matter of months. I've seen it happen on brand new Rangers in under a year.

Apply a water-based tyre gel. Avoid the 'slingy' silicone stuff from the servo; it just attracts dust and makes a mess of your guards.

Apply a bit of silicone spray or rubber conditioner to your door seals. It stops them from drying out and sticking to the frame in 40-degree heat.

Wipe the dash with a matte-finish UV protectant. Don't use the shiny stuff, the reflection on the windscreen is dangerous when the sun is low.