What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you're like me, you love a good trip out to the red centre or up the coast, but your car's paint absolutely hates it. Between the 45-degree heat and that bloody iron-rich dust that gets into every crevice, standard washing just doesn't cut it. This guide is for the blokes and ladies who want to use the same 'advanced' tricks I use in my shop to make sure that red dirt actually comes off next time instead of staining your clear coat forever.
The Reality of Detailing in Australia
The Proper Gear for the Job
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
The Cold Start
Never, ever work on a hot car. If you've just driven home, let the bonnet cool down. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, the soap dried instantly and left spots that took me hours to polish out. Find some shade or wait for the arvo.
Wheel and Arch Deep Clean
Hit the wheel arches first. If you leave them till last, you'll just spray mud back onto your clean panels. Use a dedicated degreaser or APC (All Purpose Cleaner).
The Pre-Wash
Snow foam the whole car while it's dry. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, just don't let it dry. This softens the red dust so it slides off without scratching.
The Advanced Deep Clean and Protect
Contact Wash
Two-bucket method here, mates. One with your soap, one with clean water to rinse your mitt. Work from the roof down. If you drop your wash mitt, chuck it in the bin (or the wash) and grab a new one. Don't risk the grit.
Iron Decontamination
Spray your iron remover on the dry-ish panels. It'll turn purple when it hits the brake dust and industrial fallout. This is crucial if you live near a railway line or a port.
Mechanical Decon (Clay)
Use plenty of lubricant and glide the clay bar over the paint. If it feels 'gritty', keep going until it's smooth as glass. This pulls out the stuff the wash missed.
Dry it Properly
Use a big dedicated drying towel or a leaf blower. Don't use a chamois, they're old school and actually trap dirt against the paint. Not a fan.
Tape it Up
Use some blue painter's tape on your plastic trims and rubber seals. Trust me, getting polish residue off black plastic is a nightmare you don't want.
The Polish
Put 4 pea-sized dots of polish on your pad. Work in a 50cm x 50cm square. Overlap your passes. You're not looking to remove deep scratches here, just the oxidation and light swirls from the bush.
Buff Off
Wipe away the polish residue with a fresh microfibre. Check your work with a bright torch or the sun.
Panel Prep
Spray your IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or panel wipe onto a cloth and wipe the whole car down. This removes the oils from the polish so your protection can 'bite' into the paint.
The Protection
Apply your ceramic sealant. If you're using Gyeon CanCoat, spray it on the cloth, wipe it on a panel, and buff it off immediately. Don't wait. Do one panel at a time.
Glass and Trim
Clean your glass with a dedicated cleaner. For the plastic trim, use a ceramic-based trim restorer. It'll stop them turning grey in the UV.
Pro Tip: Dealing with Bat Droppings
Watch Out
Maintaining the Finish
Common Questions from the Shed
How often should I clay bar my car?
Can I do this in the sun?
Is ceramic coating really better than wax?
What if I have matte paint or a wrap?
How do I get red dust out of the door rubbers?
The 'Missus' Test
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