What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we all know the Aussie sun is a different beast entirely. By the time March rolls around, your car has likely copped a summer's worth of 40-degree days, coastal salt, and those lovely 'gifts' from the local bat population. This guide is all about stripping back the grime and putting down some serious UV protection so your paint actually lasts longer than a few years.
The Reality of the Aussie Sun
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
The Cool-Down
Never, ever wash a car that's been sitting in the sun. The metal will be 60 degrees and your soap will dry instantly, leaving spots. Get it in the shade or wait until the arvo when the panels are cool to the touch.
The Wheels First
I always do wheels first. If you do the body then the wheels, the brake dust overspray will just ruin your hard work. Give them a good scrub with a dedicated wheel brush.
The Pre-Rinse
Blast off the loose red dust and salt spray with a pressure washer or a decent hose nozzle. Don't touch the paint with a sponge yet, that's how you get swirl marks.
The Full UV-Protection Process
Two-Bucket Wash
Fill one bucket with soapy water and one with plain water. Dip your mitt in the soap, wash a panel, then rinse the mitt in the plain water before going back for more soap. It keeps the dirt out of your wash mitt.
Decontamination (Chemical)
While the car is still wet, spray an iron remover over the paint. Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes. You'll see it turn purple as it dissolves brake dust and rail dust. Rinse it off thoroughly.
Clay Bar Treatment
Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lube. Run it over the paint until it feels smooth as glass. This gets rid of the 'stubborn' stuff like tree sap and industrial fallout that a wash won't touch.
The Final Rinse and Dry
Give it a final rinse and dry it properly. I like using a cordless blower to get water out of the mirrors and badges (no dramas if you don't have one, just use a towel).
Panel Wipe (Optional but Recommended)
Give the paint a quick wipe with an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) mix or a dedicated prep spray. This removes any leftover waxes or oils so your protection sticks properly.
Applying the Protection
If you're using a ceramic spray like Gtechniq C2, spray it onto a microfibre applicator, work it into a 50x50cm section, and buff it off immediately. Don't let it sit too long or it'll go 'grabby'.
Don't Forget the Trim
Plastic trims turn grey and chalky because of UV. Use a dedicated trim restorer. I'm a big fan of Solution Finish, but for a quicker job, CarPro Perl is brilliant.
Glass Protection
Apply a rain repellent to the windscreen. It helps with visibility during those sudden autumn thunderstorms we get.
Tyre Dressing
Apply a water-based tyre shine. Avoid the oily, silicone-heavy ones from the supermarket, they just sling grease down the side of your car and brown your tyres over time.
Check Your Work
Take the car out into the sun (briefly!) to check for high spots or streaks you might have missed in the garage. Buff them out with a clean cloth.
Watch Out
The Dish Soap Myth
Maintaining the Shield
Common Questions
Does a wax actually protect against UV better than a ceramic spray?
Can I do this in the sun if I'm quick?
How often should I clay my car?
Is it worth getting a professional ceramic coating?
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