What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we all know the Aussie sun is brutal. If you're just using a cheap wash-and-wax from the servo, you're basically fighting a bushfire with a water pistol. This guide is for the blokes and ladies who want to go beyond the basics and actually preserve their car's value against the heat, the salt, and the bloody bats. I've spent 15 years in this trade, and I'm going to tell you exactly how I handle a full exterior detail when the mercury is hitting the red.
The Reality of Detailing in February
Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting Yourself Up for Success
Timing is Everything
Start at the crack of dawn or late in the arvo. You want the panels to be cool to the touch. If you can't hold your hand on the bonnet for 10 seconds, it's too hot to touch with chemicals.
The Pre-Rinse
Blast the car down with a pressure washer first. You want to get all that loose grit and dust off before you even think about touching the paint with a wash mitt.
Wheel First, Always
I always do the wheels first. Why? Because you don't want wheel grime and iron spray flicking up onto your freshly cleaned paint later on.
The Full Advanced Process
Chemical Decontamination
Spray an iron remover over the dry paint. It'll turn purple as it reacts with metal particles. Give it 2-3 minutes but don't let it dry! Rinse it off thoroughly.
Two-Bucket Wash
One bucket with soap, one with clean water to rinse your mitt. Work from the top down. A mate of mine once tried to save time by using one bucket on his dirty Hilux, the swirls he put in it looked like he'd used a Scotch-Brite pad.
Mechanical Decontamination (Clay)
Use a clay bar and plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine) to pull out the embedded grit. Your paint should feel smooth as glass when you're done.
The Dry Down
Use a dedicated large drying towel. Don't use the old chamois your dad has had in the shed since 1994, those things just drag dirt around.
Paint Inspection
Get a bright LED torch and look for swirls and scratches. This tells you where you need to focus your polishing efforts.
Taping Up
Chuck some painter's tape over plastic trims and rubbers. Polishing pads will chew up plastic and leave white marks that are a nightmare to get off.
The Correction Phase
Apply 4-5 drops of compound to your DA polisher pad. Work in a 50x50cm section. Use slow, overlapping passes. Don't rush it, let the machine do the work.
The Final Polish
Switch to a finishing pad and a fine polish. This is what gives you that deep, wet-look shine that makes the neighbours jealous.
Panel Wipe
Wipe the whole car down with an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) mix. This removes any oils from the polish so your protection can actually bond to the paint.
Applying Protection
Apply your ceramic coating or sealant. If you're using a coating, work in small sections and buff off as soon as it 'flashes' (looks like oil on water).
Watch Out
Pro Tip: The Bat Poo Emergency
Maintaining the Shine
Pro Tip: Dealing with Red Dust
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I just use dish soap to strip old wax?
How often should I clay bar my car?
My headlights are yellow, can I fix them during this process?
Is ceramic coating really better than wax?
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