How to Clean and Restore Your Snorkel and Roof Rack (Mar 2026)

What You'll Learn

Aussie Conditions

Australian UV is 15% stronger than Europe. Your dash and leather need proper UV protection, not just cleaning, especially if you park outside.

Quick Summary

Look, we all love a weekend away, but after a trip up the coast or out past the black stump, your 4x4 usually looks like it’s been through a war zone. I reckon the two most neglected parts of any rig are the snorkel and the roof rack, mostly because they're a bit of a reach. This guide is for those of you who want to stop that expensive textured plastic from fading in our brutal UV and keep the grit out of your intake.

Why you shouldn't ignore the high bits

Right, so you've just come back from a trip. You've hit the local car wash, given the panels a spray, and she looks alright from a distance. But if you actually climb up and look at your roof rack and snorkel, I bet they're still caked in that fine red powder or crusty salt spray. I learned this the hard way when I left my old safari snorkel covered in coastal salt for a month. By the time I got around to it, the plastic had started to 'chalk', that nasty white oxidation that makes a $600 snorkel look like a $20 piece of scrap. After 15 years doing this, I’ve found that the textured plastic used on most Aussie gear like Rhino-Rack or TJM stuff is a magnet for grime. If you don't get the salt and UV-damaged layers off, the sun just cooks the dirt into the pores. It’s not just about looks either; a clogged snorkel head is basically like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a thick sock.

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

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A sturdy step ladder — Don't be a hero trying to stand on the tyre, you'll slip and dent the guard (trust me on this one).

Dedicated APC (All Purpose Cleaner) — I reckon Bowden’s Own 'Orange Agent' is the go-to here for cutting through grease and dust.

Soft-bristled detailing brush — A cheap 2-inch paintbrush from Bunnings actually works wonders for rack channels.

Stiff-bristled tyre brush — For the really stubborn mud on the snorkel head.

Pressure washer or a decent hose — Don't go full blast on the snorkel intake though.

Microfibre wash mitt — One you don't mind getting absolutely filthy.

Plastic Trim Restorer — Solution Finish is the gold standard, but Meguiar's Ultimate Black is decent for a quick fix.

Aerospace 303 Protectant — The only thing I trust to stop our UV from killing plastic.

A pack of cheap microfibre towels — Because they're going to turn red/brown and you'll probably want to chuck 'em after.

While you're here...

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Getting Ready

Tap each step to mark complete

Park in the shade

Never wash a hot car in the Aussie sun. If the metal is too hot to touch, your chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streak marks that are a nightmare to get off.

The 'Dust Down'

If you've just come back from the outback, don't touch the car with a sponge yet. Use a dry hose or a light air compressor puff to get the loose 'top' layer of red dust off. If you rub it while dry, it's basically sandpaper.

Check the snorkel head

Rotate the snorkel head if you need to, or check if the drain holes at the bottom are blocked with leaves or dead locusts. You'd be surprised what gets sucked in there.

The Step-By-Step Clean

Tap each step to mark complete

Initial Rinse

Blast the roof rack and snorkel with water. Aim the pressure washer into the channels of the rack to flush out the salt and grit that hides under the crossbars.

Apply APC

Spray your All Purpose Cleaner liberally over the snorkel body and the entire roof rack. Let it dwell for about 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry. If it's a hot arvo, do it in sections.

Agitate the Snorkel

Use your soft brush to work the cleaner into the textured surface of the snorkel. This is where you'll see the water turn brown, that's the embedded dust coming out of the 'pores' of the plastic.

Scrub the Rack Channels

Roof racks (especially the platform types) have heaps of T-slots. Run your brush through every single one. If you've been near the ocean, salt loves to crystallise in these spots.

The Snorkel Grille

Get in between the slats of the snorkel head. I once found a desiccated sparrow in a customer's Hilux snorkel, gave us both a bit of a shock. Make sure those gaps are clear.

Final Rinse Down

Rinse everything thoroughly. Start from the top (the rack) and work down. Make sure you flush the suds off the roof and down the windscreen so they don't leave spots.

Dry it Properly

Use an old towel to dry the rack and snorkel. If you let it air dry in 35-degree heat, you'll get water spots that are harder to remove than the dirt was.

Deep Clean the Plastic

If the snorkel still looks a bit greyish after drying, it's oxidized. Grip a microfibre cloth and give it a firm wipe with some isopropyl alcohol to strip any remaining old waxes or oils.

Apply Protection

Apply your trim restorer or 303 Protectant. For snorkels, I reckon don't use the 'shiny' stuff. It looks cheap. Use something that gives a nice matte or satin factory finish.

Wipe the Rack Rails

Give the metal rails of the rack a quick wipe with a spray sealant. It makes it much easier to wash the bugs off next time.

Watch Out

When you're rinsing the snorkel, for the love of god, don't stick the pressure washer nozzle directly into the intake. Most snorkels have a water separator/drain system, but they aren't designed to handle 2000 PSI of direct water. Keep the spray at an angle and be sensible.

The Secret to Red Dust

If you've got that stubborn red Pilbara dust that won't budge, try a dedicated 'Iron Remover' spray. Sometimes the red colour comes from actual iron ore in the soil, and a chemical decontaminant like Gtechniq W6 will dissolve it way better than soap ever could.

Watch Out

While you're up there on the ladder, give the rack a shake. Vibrations on corrugated roads loosen bolts like nobody's business. I've seen a mate's rack nearly fly off on the Bruce Highway because he hadn't checked the mounting points in a year. No dramas, just give 'em a quick nip with an Allen key.

Keeping it Schmik

Once you've done the hard yards, maintenance is easy. Truth be told, I usually just hit my snorkel with a bit of 303 Protectant every second wash. It's got an SPF 40 rating basically, which is vital when the car is sitting at the airport or in the driveway all day. If you've got a powder-coated roof rack, keep an eye out for chips. Our gravel roads will pepper the front leading edge with stone chips, and once the moisture gets under the coating, it'll start to bubble. A quick dab of black touch-up paint (or even a Sharpie if you're in a rush, I won't tell) will save you a massive headache down the line. And yeah, that's pretty much it. Keep the salt off and the UV protection on, and your gear will last as long as the truck does.

Common Questions from the Shed

Can I use tyre shine on my snorkel?

You could, but I wouldn't. Most tyre shines are silicone-based and greasy. They'll attract dust like crazy, and the first time it rains, you'll have greasy black streaks running down your guard and door. Stick to a dedicated trim restorer.

How do I get bird droppings off the roof rack?

Don't scrub them dry! Bat and bird droppings in Australia are incredibly acidic. Soak a paper towel in warm water, lay it over the 'present' for 5 minutes to soften it, then gently wipe. If you scrub, the seeds in the droppings will scratch the powder coating.

Should I take the snorkel head off to clean it?

If it's been a while, then yeah, definitely. It's usually just one hose clamp. Taking it off lets you clean the internal lip and check for any debris that might be bypassing the filter.

The powder coating on my rack is turning white. Is it ruined?

Not necessarily. It's usually just heavy oxidation. Try a light rubbing compound (the stuff you use for paint) on a small patch. If it brings the black back, you can save it. If the coating is flaking off in chunks, it's probably time for a sand and a respray with some Raptor liner.

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