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Interior Cleaning beginner 7 min read

How to Clean and Restore Your Snorkel and Roof Rack

Your car's interior cops more abuse than you realise—UV damage, spills, body oils, and the occasional fast food disaster. Here's how to fight back.

Off-road gear takes a beating from the Aussie sun and red dust, often turning grey and chalky long before the rest of the car. Here is how to deep clean your snorkel and rack and actually keep them looking black.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 1 March 2026
How to Clean and Restore Your Snorkel and Roof Rack

Aussie Conditions

Australian UV is 15% stronger than Europe. Your dash and leather need proper UV protection, not just cleaning, especially if you park outside.
Quick Summary

Look, we all love bolting gear to our rigs, but snorkels and roof racks are absolute magnets for the worst Australia has to throw at us. Whether it is caked-on red dust from a Simpson crossing or salty crust from a weekend at Fraser, these textured plastics and powders-coated metals need more than a quick splash at the local servo. This guide is for the blokes and ladies who want their touring gear to actually last the distance without fading into a sad, chalky mess.

01

The Reality of Aussie Off-Road Gear

Right, let's be honest. Most of us install a snorkel or a platform rack and then basically ignore them until they start looking like a piece of drift wood. I've spent 15 years detailing cars in this sun, and I've seen $2000 racks ruined in three years because of salt and UV. The thing is, snorkels and racks are usually made of textured polyethylene or powder-coated aluminium. These surfaces are porous, meaning they love to trap red dust and salt spray deep down where a standard car wash won't touch it. I learned this the hard way when I tried to just 'pressure wash' a muddy snorkel on a black Commodore I once owned, ended up with permanent brown staining that looked like a bad fake tan. If you want your rig looking sharp for the next trip (or for when you eventually try to sell it to some bloke on Marketplace), you need to get stuck in with the right method.
02

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
Large soft-bristle brush — Something like the Bowden's Own Boar's Hair brush is mint for getting into rack channels.
Versatile APC (All Purpose Cleaner) — Koch Chemie Green Star or Meguiar's APC. Don't use dish soap, it'll dry the plastic out.
A decent step ladder — Don't be a hero and stand on your tyres. I've seen too many mates slip and dent their guards.
Microfibre wash mitt — One you don't mind getting a bit dirty.
Plastic Trim Restorer — Solution Finish is the only one I trust for snorkels. It's a dye, not a greasy dressing.
Pressure washer — Optional, but makes life heaps easier for rinsing out rack mounting points.
Compressed air or a leaf blower — Essential for getting water out of the snorkel head and rack bolts.
Clay bar or clay mitt — Trust me, your roof rack picks up more fallout than your bonnet does.
03

Preparation is Key

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Park in the shade

Never, ever do this in the direct midday sun. The chemicals will dry on the plastic and leave streaks that are a nightmare to remove. Wait for the arvo or do it under a carport.

02

The 'Big Rinse'

Give the snorkel and rack a massive hose down. You want to get all the loose grit and 'crunchy' bits off before you start scrubbing, otherwise you're just sandpapering your gear.

03

Clear the deck

If you've got recovery boards or shovels mounted, chuck 'em off. You can't clean what you can't reach, and the gunk hiding under those mounts is what causes corrosion.

04

The Deep Clean Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Snorkel Head Removal

Start by loosening the clamp and taking the 'ram' head off the snorkel. A customer once brought in a Safari snorkel that was 'whistling', turns out it was half-full of dead Christmas beetles and a very confused huntsman.

02

APC Application

Spray your APC (diluted about 10:1) over the snorkel body and the entire roof rack. Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry. This breaks down the traffic film and oils.

03

Agitate the Snorkel

Use your soft brush in circular motions on the snorkel. You'll see the suds turn brown, that's the embedded red dust finally saying goodbye.

04

Scrub the Rack Channels

Roof racks have all those annoying T-slots. Run your brush through every single one. If you've been near the coast, this is where the salt hides and starts the bubbling process on powder-coat.

05

Rinse Thoroughly

Blast it all down. Focus on the area where the snorkel meets the guard and the mounting feet of the rack. Mud loves to sit in those gaskets and hold moisture against your roof.

06

Clay the Flat Surfaces

If your rack is a platform style (like a Rhino-Rack Pioneer), run a clay mitt over the flat slats with some soapy water. You'll be shocked at how much 'grit' comes off even after washing.

07

The Internal Clean

Clean the inside of the snorkel head with a damp cloth. Check the drain holes (the little slits at the bottom). If these are blocked, rain will go straight into your airbox. Not ideal.

08

Blow Dry

Use a leaf blower to get water out of the rack bolts and the snorkel's textured surface. If you let it air dry in the Aussie heat, you'll get nasty water spots.

09

De-grease for Protection

Give the snorkel a quick wipe with a bit of Isopropyl Alcohol or a dedicated panel wipe. This ensures your protection product actually sticks.

10

Apply Protection

Wipe on your trim restorer or a ceramic sealant. I reckon Gtechniq C4 is brilliant for racks, while Solution Finish is king for snorkels. Work it in well and buff off the excess.

Watch Out

I see people doing this all the time at car shows. They slap greasy silicone tyre shine on their snorkel to make it look black. Truth is, it's a dust magnet. The second you hit a dirt road, your snorkel will look like a lamington covered in dust. Plus, it can run down your paint when it rains, leaving greasy streaks that are a pain to get off.

The Old Toothbrush Trick

Keep an old toothbrush in your detailing kit. It's the only way to properly clean the lettering on most snorkels and the tiny gaps around the roof rack mounting bolts. Salt loves those bolts, give them a spray of Lanotec or Fish Oil after cleaning if you spend a lot of time at the beach.
05

Keeping the Look Alive

Once you've done the hard yards, maintenance is easy. Don't wait until the next big trip to clean them again. Every time you wash the car, give the rack a quick brush over. If you've used a proper trim restorer like I mentioned, you shouldn't need to redo it for at least 6-12 months. Most of the time, a simple 'rinse and dry' will keep the red dust from staining again. Honestly, the biggest killer is UV, so if you can park under a carport or in a garage, do it. Your plastics will thank you. Also, keep an eye on your snorkel's air intake, if you've been driving through swarms of bugs out west, you might need to pop the head off and clear out the mesh every few weeks.
06

Common Questions from the Track

Can I use a pressure washer inside the snorkel?
My roof rack is starting to peel, can I save it?
How do I get bat poo off my rack without scratching it?
Is it worth ceramic coating a snorkel?

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