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Interior Cleaning beginner 7 min read

How to Clean and Restore Your Outbound Gear

Your car's interior cops more abuse than you realise—UV damage, spills, body oils, and the occasional fast food disaster. Here's how to fight back.

Is your snorkel looking grey and your roof rack caked in red dust? Here is how to deep clean and protect your off-road hardware before the UV rays turn them brittle.

D"M
Dave "Davo" Mitchell Off-Road & 4WD Specialist
| Updated: 5 March 2026
How to Clean and Restore Your Outbound Gear

Aussie Conditions

Australian UV is 15% stronger than Europe. Your dash and leather need proper UV protection, not just cleaning, especially if you park outside.
Quick Summary

Look, we spend thousands on snorkels and flat racks, but most people just hit them with a quick spray at the local DIY wash and wonder why the plastic looks like a dried-out bone six months later. This guide is all about getting into the nooks and crannies of your 4x4's exterior accessories. Whether you have been doing beach runs or just came back from a dusty trek up north, I will show you how to get them looking brand new again.

01

The Reality of Aussie Off-Road Gear

Right, let's be honest. Most of us treat our snorkels and roof racks like they're invincible. We bolt them on, head into the scrub, and forget about them until the black plastic starts turning that depressing shade of chalky grey. I learned this the hard way when I left red dust from a Birdsville trip sitting on my old Safari snorkel for three months. By the time I tried to clean it, the iron in the dirt had basically baked into the grain of the plastic. It was a nightmare. Between the brutal UV we get in March and the salt spray if you're anywhere near the coast, your gear is taking a beating. A quick foam cannon at the servo isn't going to cut it. You need to get the grit out of the channels and put some life back into the materials. It's not just about looks, either, keeping your snorkel head clear and your rack mounts free of corrosion is just basic maintenance that'll save you a fortune in the long run.
02

What You'll Need

What You'll Need

0/9
A decent APC (All Purpose Cleaner) — I reckon Bowden's Own Agent Orange is a ripper for this.
Soft-bristled detailing brushes — Get a variety of sizes to get into the rack channels.
Long-reach wheel brush — Perfect for getting under the rack and between the roof.
Microfibre wash mitt — One you don't mind getting a bit dirty.
Plastic trim restorer/protectant — Something like Solution Finish or Gtechniq C4 if you want it to last.
A ladder or sturdy step stool — Don't be a hero, your back will thank you later.
Pressure washer or a good hose nozzle — Keep it on a wider fan setting for plastic.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipe — Essential for prepping the surface before protecting.
Clay bar or clay mitt — Surprisingly good for getting 'baked on' dust out of textured plastic.
03

Preparation

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Cool it down

Never wash your gear when it's hot to the touch. If you've been parked in the sun, chuck it in the shade for an hour first. If chemicals dry on hot plastic, they'll leave streaks that are a prick to get off.

02

The Initial Rinse

Give everything a heavy soak with plain water. You want to move as much loose grit and salt as possible before you touch it with a brush. Focus on the underside of the roof rack where the salt likes to hide.

03

Check the fasteners

While you're there, just give the rack a wiggle. It's the best time to see if any bolts have rattled loose before you start scrubbing.

04

The Deep Clean Procedure

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Snorkel Head Removal

If you can, pop the snorkel head off. It's usually just one hose clamp. A customer once brought in a car complaining of a 'whistling' sound; it was just a massive dried-up gum leaf stuck in the grate. Cleaning it off the car is heaps easier.

02

Apply Cleaner

Spray your APC onto the snorkel and the roof rack. Don't do the whole car at once; just focus on one section. Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry.

03

Agitate the Snorkel

Use a soft brush in circular motions. Most snorkels have a textured finish that traps red dust. You've got to work the bristles into that texture to lift the dirt out.

04

Rack Channel Scrubbing

This is the tedious bit. Use your small detailing brush to get into the T-slots and channels of your roof rack. This is where salt and dirt live, and if left alone, they'll start corroding the aluminium or the bolts.

05

The 'Under-Rack' Rinse

Use your long-reach brush and some soapy water to clean the actual roof of the car under the rack. It's a pain to reach, but if you don't, that dirt just runs down your windows every time it rains.

06

Clay Bar (The Secret Step)

If the snorkel still feels 'gritty' after washing, use a clay bar with some soapy water as lube. It's a trick I used on a black Commodore once that had overspray on the trim, and it works wonders for embedded iron and outback dust too.

07

Final Rinse

Blast everything down with plenty of fresh water. Make sure you rinse out the inside of the snorkel head (if you took it off) and the drainage holes at the bottom of the snorkel pillar.

08

Thorough Drying

Use a dedicated microfibre or even a leaf blower if you've got one. You don't want water spotting, especially on black powder-coated racks.

09

Surface Prep

Wipe the dry plastic with a bit of Isopropyl Alcohol on a cloth. This removes any leftover soap residue or oils so your protectant actually sticks.

10

Apply Protection

Apply your trim restorer. If the snorkel is badly faded, I'd go for Solution Finish. If it's still in good nick, a ceramic-based trim coating like Gtechniq C4 is the gold standard. It'll last a year instead of a week.

Watch Out

If you park under gum trees, you'll get that sticky sap in your roof rack channels. Whatever you do, don't try to scrub it off dry. Use a dedicated tar and sap remover. I've seen guys ruin the powder coating on expensive Rhino-Racks by going at them with a green kitchen scourer. Don't be that bloke.

The Snorkel Drain Hole

Most snorkels have a little one-way valve or drain hole at the bottom near the airbox. While you're cleaning, check it's not plugged with mud. If it is, and you go through a heavy downpour, that water has nowhere to go but into your air filter. Not ideal.
05

Keeping it Mint

Once you've done the hard yards of a deep clean, maintenance is heaps easier. Truth be told, I usually just hit my snorkel with a bit of 'bead maker' or a ceramic spray sealant every second wash. It makes the surface slick, so the dust doesn't stick as hard next time you're out bush. For the roof rack, if you're living near the ocean, give it a quick fresh water spray every week. Salt loves to sit in those aluminium extrusions and cause 'white rust' (oxidation). If you see any chips in the powder coating, touch them up with a bit of black paint or even a permanent marker in a pinch to stop the corrosion from spreading under the coating. Your partner might think you're obsessed, but hey, a well-maintained rig keeps its value.
06

Common Questions

Can I use tyre shine on my snorkel?
Nah, don't bother. Most tyre shines are silicone-based and greasy. They'll look great for ten minutes, but as soon as you hit a dirt road, the dust will stick to it like glue. Use a proper 'dry-to-the-touch' trim protectant instead.
How do I get red dust out of the textured plastic?
A stiff-bristled detailing brush and a good APC are your best friends. If it's really stubborn, sometimes a soft toothbrush and some white vinegar can help break down the minerals in the outback dirt.
Should I take the rack off to clean it?
Only if you're doing a total restoration. Most of the time, she'll be right if you just use a step ladder and a long brush. Taking a full rack off is usually a two-person job and a massive pain to realign.
My snorkel is already grey/white, is it too late?
Usually, no. A product like Solution Finish actually puts black dye back into the plastic pores. It’s not a permanent fix like paint, but it'll last several months even in the Aussie sun.

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