Comprehensive Guide to Polishing Pad Selection and Maintenance

Before a pad touches the paint, the surface must be surgically clean. Perform a strip wash using a high-alkaline soap (pH 10+) to remove old waxes. Follow with an iron fallout remover and a clay bar treatment. Any remaining red dust or grit will lodge in your polishing pad and act like sandpaper, scouring the paint rather than polishing it.

Inspect new or used pads for any 'crustiness' or debris. To prime a fresh pad, apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound and work it into the surface with your fingers. This ensures every square millimetre of the pad is lubricated, preventing 'dry buffing' which causes micro-marring, especially on heat-sensitive panels.

In Australia, you must work in a shaded, well-ventilated area. If working in a garage, use industrial fans to circulate air. Ensure the panel temperature is below 30°C before starting. If the metal is hot to the touch, the polish will dry prematurely, clogging the pad and making removal nearly impossible.

Use high-quality automotive masking tape to cover rubber window seals, unpainted plastic trim, and badges. Polishing pads rotating at high speeds will instantly 'burn' or whiten textured plastics upon contact, creating a permanent blemish that is difficult to fix.

Choose a 50cm x 50cm area on the bonnet or boot. Always start with the least aggressive combination (e.g., a polishing pad with a fine polish). This 'conservative' approach preserves the maximum amount of clear coat, which is your primary defence against UV damage.

Apply 3-4 pea-sized drops of your chosen compound near the edge of the pad. Do not over-saturate; too much product leads to 'hydroplaning,' where the pad slides over the paint instead of cutting, and it also causes the pad to become heavy and unbalanced.

With the machine off, dab the pad across your 50cm x 50cm section. Then, set the machine to its lowest speed (Setting 1) and spread the product evenly. This prevents 'sling,' where polish is thrown onto glass and trim.

Increase the machine speed (Setting 4-5 for DA polishers). Use slow, overlapping arm movements (roughly 2-3cm per second). Apply moderate downward pressure, ensuring the pad remains spinning. If the pad stops rotating, you are applying too much pressure or the angle is incorrect.

After 4-6 passes, stop and feel the panel. In Australian summer conditions, the friction can quickly escalate temperatures. Use an IR thermometer; if the panel exceeds 50°C, move to a different section of the car to allow the area to cool naturally.

After every single section, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out the spent residue. You will see a cloud of white dust; this is a mix of dried polish and removed clear coat. If you don't clean the pad, this 'spent' material will clump and cause 'pigtail' scratches.

Wipe the section with a 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) mix and a clean microfibre. This removes polishing oils that might be 'filling' the scratches. Inspect with a high-intensity LED torch to ensure the defects are actually removed, not just hidden.

A single pad cannot do a whole car in heat. The foam 'fatigues' as it gets hot and saturated. Use 4-5 pads per stage (Cutting, Polishing, Finishing) for a standard sedan. Switch to a fresh, cool pad every 2-3 panels to maintain consistent cutting power.

When approaching panel edges or body lines, reduce pressure. The paint is thinnest on the edges, and the increased friction at the perimeter of the pad can 'burn through' to the primer in seconds. Professional tip: Tilt the machine slightly so the pad rotates away from the sharp edge.

Once correction is complete, switch to a soft finishing foam pad and a fine jewelers polish. Use very light pressure and slightly faster arm movement. This removes any slight hazing left by the heavy cutting stage and maximizes the gloss/reflectivity.

When finished, do not pull the pad off the backing plate by the foam. This will tear the foam. Instead, use your fingernail or a flat tool to get between the hook-and-loop interface and peel it back carefully.

Submerge used pads in a bucket of warm water mixed with pad cleaner. Massage the foam to release the polish resins. Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. Spin them on your polisher inside a bucket to 'centrifuge' out the excess water before air-drying.