The Ultimate Guide to Chemical Tar and Adhesive Removal

Never apply tar remover to a hot surface. In Australian summer conditions, the solvent will evaporate instantly, potentially bonding the tar more firmly to the paint or causing chemical staining. Ensure the vehicle has been out of the sun for at least two hours and the panels are cool to the touch. If working outdoors, do this in the early morning before 9:00 AM.

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash or snow foam pre-wash to remove all loose dirt, red dust, and salt. If you apply tar remover over a dirty car, you risk scratching the paint as you wipe. Dry the vehicle thoroughly; most tar removers are 'hydrophobic' and their effectiveness is significantly reduced if the surface is wet.

Tar removers are aggressive solvents. Use low-tack painter's tape to cover sensitive rubber seals, unpainted textured plastics, and aftermarket vinyl wraps. These materials can swell or discolour if they come into contact with hydrocarbons for an extended period.

Work in a well-ventilated area, preferably a carport or garage with the door open. Tar removers emit strong VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) that can cause dizziness. Ensure your nitrile gloves are on and you have a clear path to a water source in case of accidental skin contact.

Apply a small amount of the tar remover to an inconspicuous area, such as the bottom of the door sill or inside the door jamb. Wait 60 seconds and wipe off. This ensures the paint is original and stable, and that the solvent doesn't cause immediate swelling or softening of the finish.

Spray the tar remover directly onto the affected area, focusing on the lower third of the vehicle. Work in small sections (approx. 50cm x 50cm) to prevent the product from drying out before it has had time to react with the contaminants.

Allow the product to dwell for 1 to 3 minutes. You will see the black tar spots begin to 'bleed' or run down the panel in brown streaks. This is the visual indicator that the solvent is breaking the molecular bond between the bitumen and the clear coat.

For larger 'chunks' of tar, do not pick them with your fingernail. Instead, spray a microfibre towel with the product and gently press it against the deposit for 30 seconds. This 'soaking' technique softens the core of the tar without needing abrasive force.

Using a clean, dry microfibre towel, wipe the dissolved tar away using light, linear motions. Do not use circular scrubbing motions, as any trapped grit will cause swirls. Turn the towel to a clean face frequently to avoid redepositing tar back onto the panel.

If removing old sticker residue or weights from wheels, saturate the area and wait 5 minutes. Use a plastic razor blade at a 45-degree angle to gently lift the softened glue. Re-apply solvent to any remaining 'ghosting' and wipe clean.

Inspect the panel under a high-intensity LED light. If you can still feel bumps or see faint brown spotting, repeat the application. Heavy bitumen buildup from roadworks often requires 2-3 passes to fully clear the pores of the paint.

Once the tar is gone, the panel will have an oily film. This must be neutralized. Rinse the area thoroughly with high-pressure water, then wash the section with a high-pH soap or snow foam to strip the solvent oils from the surface.

After drying the car again, perform a final wipe with a 70% Isopropyl Alcohol solution. This ensures no chemical residue remains which could interfere with the bonding of your next layer of wax or ceramic sealant.

Tar often hides on the inner barrels of wheels and inside the lip of the wheel arch. Apply the same process here, but be mindful of brake components. Avoid getting tar remover on brake rotors or pads, as it can contaminate the friction surface.