The Ultimate Guide to Chemical Tar Removal and Surface Decontamination

Never apply solvent-based tar removers to a hot panel or in direct sunlight. In Australian summer conditions, the chemical will flash (evaporate) instantly, leaving behind concentrated residues that can etch the clear coat. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a carport and ensure the panels are cool to the touch (below 30°C).

Thoroughly wash the vehicle using the two-bucket method to remove all loose dirt, red dust, and salt spray. If you apply tar remover over a dirty car, you risk scratching the paint as you wipe. Dry the vehicle completely; water creates a barrier that prevents the solvent from effectively penetrating the oil-based tar.

Inspect the vehicle for aftermarket parts. Solvent removers can damage some cheap plastics, unsealed rubber seals, or fresh 'shaker' spray-can paint jobs. If the car has a vinyl wrap or PPF, ensure your chosen product is 'film safe' to avoid adhesive swelling or matte-finish staining.

Don your nitrile gloves and eye protection. Solvent vapours can be overwhelming in enclosed spaces; ensure your garage door is open or work in a well-ventilated outdoor area. Keep a bucket of soapy water nearby to quickly neutralise any accidental overspray on sensitive plastics.

Divide the vehicle into manageable sections, starting with the lower rocker panels behind the front wheels. Spray the tar remover liberally onto a dry panel. Working in sections of roughly 50cm x 50cm prevents the product from drying out before it can finish its chemical reaction.

Allow the product to sit for 2 to 5 minutes. You will see the black tar spots begin to 'bleed' or run down the paint in brownish streaks. This is the visual cue that the solvent is successfully breaking down the petroleum bonds. Do not let the product dry completely.

For stubborn or thick tar deposits, use a soft detailing brush. Work in gentle, circular motions to help the chemical penetrate the centre of the tar 'blob'. Do not apply heavy downward pressure; let the chemistry do the work, not the friction.

Using a clean, dry microfibre towel, gently wipe the dissolved tar away. Use a 'roll' technique where you lift the towel as you wipe to ensure the tar is pulled into the fibres rather than smeared across the clean paint. Switch to a clean side of the towel for every pass.

If thick chunks remain, do not scrape them with your fingernail. Re-apply a concentrated drop of tar remover directly to the spot and wait another 3 minutes. If necessary, use a plastic razor blade held at a 15-degree angle with plenty of liquid lubricant to gently 'shave' the top layer off.

Tar often hides on the inner lip of the wheel arches. Spray these areas heavily and use a dedicated stiff brush (for the plastic liners) or a soft brush (for painted edges) to ensure no hidden bitumen remains to melt and spray back onto the paint later.

Once the tar is removed, the solvent residue must be stripped. Rinse the panel thoroughly with water. The water will likely bead aggressively due to the oils in the solvent. This is why a follow-up wash is critical.

Wash the treated areas with a high-lubricity car shampoo and a wash mitt. This removes the oily film left behind by the tar remover, which if left, can interfere with the bonding of your wax or sealant and attract dust.

Perform a final high-pressure rinse. Dry the panel and inspect the paint at an angle using a detailing light or bright sunlight. Look for 'ghosting' (faint outlines where the tar was) which may indicate the need for a light polish.

If the paint still feels slightly rough but black spots are gone, follow up with a clay bar or clay mitt. The tar remover has done the heavy lifting, making the claying process much faster and reducing the risk of clay-induced marring.