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Autumn Prep: Getting Your Paint Ready for Winter

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Before the weather turns and the morning frost kicks in, you need to strip away that summer grime and sun damage. This checklist covers the gear and steps to lock in protection against the elements.

D"M
Dave "Davo" Mitchell Off-Road & 4WD Specialist
| Updated: 18 March 2026
Autumn Prep: Getting Your Paint Ready for Winter

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Righto, so it's March and the heat is finally backing off, but your paint is probably cooked after three months of 40-degree days and bat droppings. I've spent 15 years doing this, and trust me, if you don't prep now, that coastal salt and winter rain will eat right through your clear coat. This is my personal go-to list for a solid seasonal reset.

01

The Essential Kit

What You'll Need

0/8
Two 15L Buckets with Grit Guards — Don't skip the guards. I once saw a bloke ruin a pristine Maloo using one bucket and a dirty sponge. Never again.
Decontamination Soap (Strip Wash) — Something like Bowden's Own Snow Job or a high-pH soap to get rid of old waxes.
Iron Remover Spray — Essential if you live near a train line or heavy industry. Gets those purple streaks bleeding out.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — I reckon the mitts are better for beginners, but a fine grade clay bar is my preference for glass.
Synthetic Sealant or Ceramic Spray — Gtechniq C2V3 is a cracker for our UV. Don't bother with cheap servo waxes, they won't last a week in the rain.
Microfibre Drying Towel (Large) — Get a twisted loop one. Makes life so much easier than an old chamois.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipe — A 10-15% dilution to strip oils before applying your protection.
Soft Detailing Brush — For getting the red dust out of window rubbers and badges.
02

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Check the shade — Never work on hot panels. If the bonnet burns your hand, she's too hot to wash.
Inspect for bat/bird droppings — If they've etched the paint, you'll need a compound, not just a wash.
Wheel check — Make sure you've got a dedicated wheel cleaner that's acid-free.
Windscreen chips — Fix these before the first frost hits, or that chip will be a crack by July.
03

The Step-by-Step Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Deep Clean Wheels

Do the wheels first while the car is dry. Use a brush to get into the barrels where the salt and brake dust hide.

02

The Strip Wash

Wash the whole car with a high-pH soap. This kills off any leftover summer wax so your new sealant actually sticks to the paint.

03

Chemical Decon

Spray iron remover on the dry paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 mins (don't let it dry!) and watch it turn purple as it dissolves metal particles.

04

Mechanical Decon (Clay)

Use plenty of lube and run your clay bar over the paint. It should feel smooth as glass once you're done. No more gritty bits.

05

The IPA Wipe

Quick wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol. This ensures the surface is 'squeaky' clean. Honestly, this is the secret to making sealants last 6 months instead of 2.

06

Apply Protection

Work one panel at a time with your sealant. Buff off immediately with a fresh microfibre. My missus always says the car looks better after this than when we bought it.

04

Final Inspection

What You'll Need

0/3
Check the door jambs — Red dust loves to hide here. Give them a quick wipe.
Tyre shine — Use a water-based dressing. The oil-based ones sling grease all over your clean guards.
Glass streaking — Look at the glass from an angle to check for sealant smears.

Watch Out

Look, whatever you do, don't use dish soap. I know your grandad did it, but it dries out your rubber seals and makes them brittle in the cold. Also, don't apply your sealant in direct sunlight, it'll streak like a mad thing and you'll spend the whole arvo trying to buff it out.

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