Ultimate Exterior Plastic Trim Restoration and UV Protection Guide

Thoroughly wash the entire vehicle using a high-pH strip soap to remove old waxes and road films. Pay specific attention to the trim areas, using a pressure washer to blast out red dust from the crevices between the trim and body panels. This prevents 'dirt drip' later in the process.

The plastic must be cool to the touch (below 30°C). In an Australian summer, this usually means working in a garage or starting at 6:00 AM. Applying chemicals to hot plastic causes flash-drying, which leads to permanent streaking and uneven absorption of the restorer.

Apply masking tape to all painted surfaces and rubber seals adjacent to the plastic trim. Ceramic restorers and heavy degreasers can stain clear coats or cause rubber to swell. Take 20 minutes to mask properly; it saves hours of correction later if you slip with an applicator.

Prepare your APC in a spray bottle at a 1:5 ratio. In a second bottle, prepare an IPA wipe-down solution (50% IPA, 50% distilled water if you have 99% concentrate, or use 70% neat). Having these ready prevents delays during the critical cleaning phase.

Spray the 1:5 APC liberally onto a 30cm section of trim. Use a stiff nylon brush in small circular motions. You will see the foam turn brown or grey; this is the embedded outback dust and oxidized plastic being lifted. Do not let the chemical dry on the surface.

For severely faded 'chalky' trim, dampen a melamine sponge with APC and lighty glide it over the surface. This acts as a microscopic abrasive to level the dead plastic. Use minimal pressure—let the sponge do the work. Rinse immediately with clean water.

Rinse the trim with high-pressure water to ensure no APC remains in the pores. Use a dedicated air blower or compressed air to remove every drop of water from the cracks. Water weeping out during the coating phase will cause the ceramic to fail and leave white spots.

Wipe the dried plastic with your IPA solution and a clean microfibre. This removes any remaining surfactant films or oils. The plastic should now look very dull and 'thirsty.' This is the ideal state for bonding.

Apply 5-8 drops of your chosen ceramic restorer (e.g., Gyeon Trim) onto a suede applicator wrapped around a foam block. Ensure the applicator is moist but not dripping. Close the bottle immediately to prevent the coating from reacting with the air.

Work in small sections (approx 40cm). Apply the product using overlapping straight lines. Ensure you get into the grain of the plastic. You will see an immediate darkening of the material. If the plastic 'drinks' the product instantly, apply a second pass while still wet.

Wait 1-2 minutes (less if the ambient temperature is over 30°C). Use a clean, short-pile microfibre to gently wipe the surface. This removes excess resin and ensures a matte-to-satin factory finish rather than a greasy, uneven shine.

Use a bright LED inspection light or the sun's reflection to check for 'high spots' (areas where the product is thicker and looks shiny or iridescent). Level these out immediately with your towel. Once cured, these are difficult to remove without polishing.

Allow the product to bond for at least 2 hours in a dry environment. Do not touch the trim or allow dust to settle on it. The chemical bonding process is sensitive to moisture during this window.

For extremely porous trim found on older 4WDs, a second coat can be applied after 1 hour. This builds a thicker UV-resistant layer. Follow the same application and leveling steps as the first coat.

Carefully pull the masking tape away from the trim at a 45-degree angle. Do this while the coating is still relatively fresh to ensure a clean line. If any coating got onto the paint, wipe it off immediately with IPA.

Keep the vehicle dry for at least 12-24 hours. Avoid washing the car with any chemicals for 7 days. This allows the ceramic resins to fully cross-link with the plastic substrate, providing maximum resistance to the Australian sun.