Professional Paint Correction and Polishing Techniques (Jan 2026)

Start with a thorough wash using a high-pH 'strip wash' soap to remove old waxes. Apply an iron fallout remover (pH neutral) to the entire body. In Australia, brake dust and industrial rail dust bond to the paint; the purple reaction indicates these particles are being dissolved. Rinse thoroughly after 3-5 minutes, ensuring the product does not dry on the surface in the heat.

Using a clay bar and dedicated lubricant, glide the clay over the paint in straight lines. This removes 'above-surface' contaminants like tree sap and overspray. If the clay feels like it's 'grabbing,' use more lubricant. This step is critical; if you skip it, the polisher will pick up these grit particles and grind them into your paint, creating deep 'pig-tail' scratches.

Use 18mm automotive masking tape to cover all unpainted plastics, rubber window seals, and chrome emblems. Machine polish can permanently stain porous black plastics white. Also, tape over panel gaps to prevent polish dust from entering the engine bay or door jambs, which is notoriously difficult to remove later.

Position the vehicle in a fully shaded area with a concrete floor. If working in 30°C+ heat, the metal panels can reach 60°C+, causing the polish to dry instantly (flash). Use fans to circulate air and ensure your LED lighting is positioned at a 45-degree angle to the panels you are working on to highlight defects.

Never guess the combination. Choose a 40cm x 40cm area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive method (Finishing Polish + Polishing Pad). If this removes the defects, proceed. If not, move to a cutting compound. This 'least aggressive' philosophy preserves as much clear coat as possible, which is vital for long-term UV protection.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh foam pad. Spread it across the face of the pad with your finger to ensure every pore is 'primed'. This prevents 'dry buffing' and ensures even abrasive distribution from the first second of contact with the paint.

Work in a small 50cm x 50cm area. Place the pad on the paint before turning the machine on (Speed 1) to spread the product. Increase to Speed 4 or 5. Move the machine at a rate of 2-3cm per second. Use a 'cross-hatch' pattern: 3 passes horizontally, followed by 3 passes vertically. This ensures uniform removal of material.

For a DA polisher, apply moderate pressure (about 5-7kg) during the initial cutting passes. You should see the pad compressing slightly but still rotating. If the pad stops rotating (stalling), you are pressing too hard or the machine is tilted. Use a black line marked on the back of the backing plate to monitor rotation.

Frequently touch the paint surface. It should feel warm but never hot. In Australian summer conditions, panels heat up rapidly. If the panel feels uncomfortable to touch, stop and move to a different section of the car. Excessive heat can cause the paint to 'soften' or the clear coat to delaminate from the base coat.

Wipe away the residue using a clean microfibre towel. Spray the area with a Panel Prep/IPA solution to dissolve the heavy oils and fillers found in compounds. Use your LED light to inspect the results. You are looking for the removal of the 'scratches' and the presence of 'haze' or 'marring' which is normal after a heavy cut.

Switch to a Finishing Pad and Fine Polish. Set the machine to Speed 3 or 4. Use very light pressure—mostly just the weight of the machine. This stage removes the micro-marring left by the compound and 'jewels' the paint to a high gloss. Perform 4 passes in a cross-hatch pattern until the polish becomes translucent.

After every section, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out spent polish and removed paint residue. A 'loaded' pad becomes ineffective and generates dangerous levels of heat. In dusty environments, this is even more critical as dust can settle on the pad and cause 'pigtail' scratches.

For pillars, wing mirrors, and bumper curves, switch to a 75mm (3-inch) backing plate and smaller pads. These areas are often softer or thinner than flat panels. Reduce your machine speed and be extremely careful near edges where the paint is naturally at its thinnest.

Once the entire vehicle is polished, perform a final wipe-down with a fresh microfibre and IPA solution. This ensures the surface is 'chemically clean,' which is a prerequisite for the bonding of a ceramic coating or high-quality sealant. Any remaining oils will significantly reduce the lifespan of your protective layer.