Taking Care of Your Door Jambs the Right Way

Never, ever do this in the direct Aussie sun. The chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streaks on your paint. Find a spot under the carport or wait until the arvo when it's cooled down.

I've made this mistake on a black Commodore, never again. If you clean the jambs with the doors open then vacuum later, you'll just blow dust all over your fresh work. Do the inside first.

If you've got exposed speaker wires (common in older 4x4s) or fancy suede interior bits near the edges, chuck some painter's tape over them.

Have your APC diluted and your brushes ready in a bucket of water. You don't want to be hunting for a tool while the degreaser is drying on your hinges.

Give the rubber seals a quick look. If they're torn, be extra careful with the water pressure or you'll end up with a wet seat.

Before you get anything wet, use a dry detailing brush to flick out loose leaves, dead spiders, and big chunks of red dust. This prevents creating a muddy soup later.

Spray your APC or degreaser directly onto the hinges and the check-strap (that bar that stops the door opening too far). Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry.

Use your stiffest detailing brush to work the cleaner into the hinges. You'll see the old grease turning into a grey sludge. This is the 'fun' part.

Spray APC on the painted surfaces of the jamb. Use a softer brush to go around the entire frame, including the bottom of the door where mud usually cakes up.

Using your pressure washer from a distance (at least a metre away), rinse the jambs. Aim outwards, away from the interior. You're trying to flush the dirt out, not wash the carpet.

Apply a bit of soapy water to your soft brush and scrub the rubber seals. This removes the salt and UV-damaged rubber bits that make them look grey.

Look at the bottom of the door. There are little holes designed to let water out. Use a toothpick or a small wire to make sure they aren't blocked with outback silt.

If there's still gunk in the tight spots, hit it with the steamer. It's the only way to get into those tiny springs and pivot points properly.

One last quick spray to make sure all the chemicals are gone. Trust me, if you leave degreaser on there, it'll etch the paint over time.

Use compressed air or your leaf blower to blast water out of the hinges, lock mechanism, and electrical looms. This is crucial to prevent rust and electrical gremlins.

Wipe everything down with your 'ugly' microfibres. Make sure you get the underside of the door, it's where the most salt hides.

If the paint feels rough, run a clay bar over it. A customer once brought in a Ranger that had never been touched, the jambs were like sandpaper until I clayed them.

Apply your spray wax or sealant to all the painted surfaces. This makes the surface slick so dust won't stick as easily next time.

Apply a rubber protectant (like 303 Aerospace) to the seals. This keeps them supple and prevents them from sticking in the heat.

Since you've just washed all the grease away, you need to put some back. A small dab of white lithium grease on the moving parts will keep things smooth.