Professional Show Car Preparation and Paint Preservation (Jan 2026)

Before touching the vehicle, perform a 360-degree inspection under high-intensity LED lighting. Document deep scratches, stone chips, and areas of clear coat thinning. In our climate, plastic trims often perish first; check for chalking or whitening. Use a paint depth gauge to ensure you have enough clear coat (typically >100 microns) to safely perform a multi-stage correction.

Mix a high-alkaline snow foam (ratio 1:10) to strip old waxes and loosen red dust or salt crust. Apply to a dry vehicle in the shade. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. This step emulsifies organic matter like bug splatter and bat droppings before mechanical contact is made, significantly reducing the risk of wash-induced marring.

Apply an iron fallout remover to the wheels and lower body panels. In industrial or coastal areas, brake dust and rail dust embed into the paint. The chemical will turn purple as it reacts with iron particles. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with a tar remover on the lower sills to dissolve bitumen softened by the summer road heat.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, gently glide the bar over the paint surface. This removes 'above-surface' contaminants that chemicals cannot reach. You are finished when the clay glides silently and the paint feels as smooth as glass. This is critical for show cars to ensure the light reflects off a perfectly flat plane.

Use automotive-grade masking tape to cover all rubber seals, unpainted plastics, and badges. High-speed polishers can instantly burn through plastic or stain rubber with compound residue. In the heat, ensure you use a low-tack tape to prevent adhesive transfer to the vehicle surfaces.

Always start with the least aggressive combination. Try a finishing polish on a foam pad. Work a 50cm x 50cm area. If swirls remain, move to a cutting compound. This prevents unnecessary removal of clear coat, which is vital for the vehicle's longevity in high-UV environments.

Apply 4 pea-sized drops of compound to a microfibre pad. Set DA polisher to speed 4-5. Use slow, overlapping passes (2-3cm per second). The goal is to remove 80-90% of defects. Monitor panel temperature; if it feels hot to the touch (above 50°C), stop and let it cool to avoid paint swelling or strike-through.

Switch to a fine foam pad and finishing polish. This stage removes the 'haze' left by the heavy cutting stage. Use light pressure and speed 3. This 'jewelling' process increases the Gloss Units and provides that deep, 'wet look' essential for show-winning vehicles.

After polishing, the car will be covered in fine dust. Perform a delicate rinse and dry. Follow with a thorough wipe-down using an IPA solution or panel prep. This removes residual polishing oils that can hide remaining defects and prevents the final coating from bonding correctly.

Apply the coating to a suede applicator wrapped around a foam block. Work in small sections (40cm x 40cm). Apply in a cross-hatch pattern. In 30°C+ weather, the 'flash time' (when the coating rainbows) may be as short as 30-60 seconds. Buff off immediately with a clean microfibre.

Using a fresh, high-GSM microfibre and an inspection light, buff the section again. Look for 'high spots' (darker, oily-looking patches). If left for more than a few minutes in the heat, these will harden and require machine polishing to remove.

Apply a dedicated glass polish to remove water spots caused by bore water or salt spray. Clean with a glass cleaner, then apply a hydrophobic glass sealant. This ensures clarity during summer storms and prevents dust from sticking to the windscreen.

Apply a permanent trim restorer to all exterior plastics. Unlike 'dressings' which wash off in the rain or bake off in the sun, a restorer bonds to the plastic to provide long-term UV protection and a deep black factory finish.

For a show finish, clean the inner wheel arches with an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC). Apply a water-based tyre dressing (matte or satin) to the sidewalls. Avoid silicone-based 'sling' products which attract red dust and turn brown quickly in the sun.

Move the vehicle into the sun (briefly) to check for any missed spots or streaks, then return to the shade. The coating requires 12-24 hours to 'dry' and 7 days to fully chemical-cure. Do not wash the vehicle with soap during this 7-day window.