Professional Show Car Preparation and Paint Protection

Vehicle surfaces must be below 30°C before any chemical application. In January, this necessitates working indoors or under a heavy-duty gazebo. Position high-velocity fans to ensure airflow, as many Australian-sold solvents evaporate too quickly in stagnant heat, leading to streaking and chemical burning.

Always clean wheels first. Use a non-acidic wheel cleaner. In coastal regions, ensure you flush the back of the brake calipers and suspension components with a 20:1 dilution of an APC (All-Purpose Cleaner) to remove accumulated salt crust that can cause flash-rusting during the detail.

Apply snow foam to a dry car to maximize dwell time. Let sit for 5-8 minutes (do not let dry). Rinse, then perform a two-bucket wash using the 'Grit Guard' system. This removes the 'loose' red dust and road film that would otherwise be ground into the paint during the clay bar stage.

Spray an iron remover over the entire vehicle. You will see 'bleeding' (purple reaction) as it dissolves embedded metallic particles. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with a clay bar and lubricant to remove 'above-surface' bonded contaminants like sap and bug remnants. The surface should feel like glass to the touch.

Use a Paint Depth Gauge (PDG) to measure the clear coat thickness in microns across all panels. Australian sun thins clear coats over time through UV degradation. If readings are below 80 microns, avoid heavy compounding and opt for a finishing polish only.

Apply automotive-grade masking tape to all rubber seals, unpainted plastics, and badges. This prevents 'white-out' staining from polishes and protects delicate trim from the high-speed rotation of the DA polisher pads.

Select a 40x40cm area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive combination (Fine pad + Finishing polish). Work the machine in overlapping passes. Wipe and inspect with an LED light. Only move to a heavy compound if defects remain, as preserving clear coat is vital in high-UV climates.

Using a heavy cutting compound, work at speed 4-5 on your DA polisher. Apply 3-4 pea-sized drops. Move the machine slowly (2cm per second). This stage removes deep 'swirls' and 'RIDS' (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) often caused by dusty outback winds.

Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This stage removes the 'haze' left by compounding. In the bright Australian sun, this is what creates the 'depth' of colour. Work at a lower speed (3) with minimal pressure to 'jewel' the paint.

Mist a 15% - 20% IPA solution or a dedicated panel prep spray over the surface. Wipe with a fresh microfibre. This removes all polishing oils, ensuring the ceramic coating can form a direct covalent bond with the paint molecules.

Apply 10-12 drops of coating to an applicator suede. Work in small sections (30x30cm). Apply in a cross-hatch pattern. In 40°C heat, 'flash time' (when the coating rainbows) may occur in as little as 30-60 seconds. Do not wait too long.

Use Towel 1 to remove the bulk of the coating residue. Use Towel 2 (high GSM) to buff to a final shine. Check for 'high spots' (dark oily patches) using your LED light from different angles. Once cured, high spots require machine polishing to remove.

Apply a dedicated glass polish to the exterior windows to remove hard water spots caused by bore water or salt spray. Polish chrome exhaust tips using a metal polish and fine steel wool (0000 grade) if heavily oxidised.

Apply a water-based, UV-inhibiting dressing to tyres and exterior plastics. Avoid silicone-based 'slingy' dressings which attract red dust and can brown the tyre sidewalls under intense heat.

Keep the vehicle dry for at least 12-24 hours. The ceramic coating requires this time to fully cross-link. In humid coastal areas, avoid evening dew during this window as it can spot the uncured coating.