Professional Show Car Preparation and Paint Preservation

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a fully shaded, enclosed area. In Australian summer, working outdoors is impossible as products will flash (dry) instantly on 40°C panels. If a garage isn't available, use a heavy-duty marquee with side walls to block wind-blown red dust and direct UV.

Always start with the wheels. Use a dedicated bucket and brushes. Apply iron remover to cool rims and agitate with a soft boar's hair brush. Use a stiff brush for the wheel arches to remove built-up mud or salt crusting from coastal driving. Rinse thoroughly before moving to the paint.

Apply a high-alkaline snow foam (pH 10-12) to the dry vehicle. This helps break down old waxes and stubborn 'bug guts' common in summer. Let it dwell for 5 minutes (do not let it dry), then rinse. This removes loose grit that would otherwise cause scratches during the contact wash.

Use the two-bucket method with Grit Guards. Use a high-lubricity pH-neutral shampoo. Wash from the top down in straight lines. This step is critical for removing the 'traffic film' that snow foam leaves behind, ensuring the mechanical decontamination step is effective.

Spray the entire vehicle with Iron Remover. You will see purple 'bleeding' as it reacts with iron particles embedded in the paint. In Australia, this is vital for removing metallic fallout from rail lines or heavy braking. Dwell for 3-4 minutes, then rinse. Never do this on a hot panel.

Using a fine clay bar and ample lubricant, glide the bar over the paint in 30x30cm sections. The paint should feel 'glass smooth' to the touch. This removes organic contaminants like sap and bat dropping residue that chemicals can't dissolve. Wipe each section dry with a clean microfibre.

Use a Paint Depth Gauge (PDG) to check the clear coat thickness across all panels. Australian sun thins clear coats over time. If readings are below 100 microns, proceed with extreme caution; if below 80 microns, avoid heavy compounding and stick to a finishing polish only.

Apply automotive masking tape to all plastic trims, rubber seals, and badges. Polishing pads can easily burn or stain textured plastics. In high heat, use a high-quality tape like 3M Blue or Green that won't leave adhesive residue on the warm surface.

Select a 40x40cm area on the bonnet. Start with the least aggressive combination (Finishing Pad + Fine Polish). Work the DA polisher in overlapping passes. Wipe and inspect with a high-CRI LED light. If swirls remain, move up to a cutting compound. Never use more force than necessary.

Using a microfiber or wool pad with a heavy compound, work at speed 4-5 on your DA. Apply moderate downward pressure and move at 2-3cm per second. This stage removes deeper scratches and oxidation. Work small sections to manage heat build-up in the panel.

Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This removes the 'haze' left by the cutting stage and increases gloss. Reduce speed to 3 and use very light pressure. This is where the 'show car' depth is created. Spend extra time on horizontal surfaces like the roof and bonnet.

Spray a 70% IPA solution or dedicated panel prep onto a clean microfibre and wipe the entire car. This removes all polishing oils. If oils remain, your ceramic coating or sealant will not bond, leading to premature failure. Check for any missed spots under LED lighting.

Apply 10-12 drops of ceramic coating to an applicator suede. Work in a 50x50cm cross-hatch pattern. Wait for the coating to 'flash' or 'rainbow' (usually 30-90 seconds in 30°C+ heat). Buff off with two separate towels: one for initial removal, one for final buffing.

Clean engine plastics with APC and a brush. Once dry, apply a water-based, non-silicone dressing. This prevents dust attraction—a major issue with oil-based dressings in outback conditions. Wipe off excess to leave a factory-satin finish rather than a greasy shine.

Use a dedicated glass polish to remove water spots caused by bore water or salt spray. Polish chrome exhausts and badges using a metal polish and a microfibre. Clean glass with a dedicated cleaner and a waffle-weave towel to ensure zero streaks for the judges.

Apply a long-lasting tyre gel. Avoid 'sling' by letting it dry for 20 minutes before driving. Perform a final walk-around with a torch, checking for high spots in the coating or leftover polish in the cracks. Use a soft brush to remove dust from emblems.