Professional Red Dust Decontamination and Removal Guide

Never attempt red dust removal on a hot surface. In Australian summer conditions, move the vehicle into a fully shaded area at least 2 hours prior to cleaning. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure panel temperatures are below 30°C. If the metal is hot, chemicals will flash-dry, causing permanent etching and staining that may require professional machine polishing to rectify.

Inspect the engine bay for heavy dust accumulation. Use low-tack automotive tape and plastic sheeting to cover sensitive electronics, the alternator, and the air intake. Red dust is a conductor when wet; preventing moisture ingress into the electrical system is paramount during the high-pressure rinse phase.

Prepare your snow foam at a ratio of 1:9 (100ml product to 900ml water) in a foam cannon. Mix your APC at 10:1 for general trim cleaning. Ensure your iron remover is in a high-volume trigger sprayer. Using distilled water for dilutions can prevent water spotting in high-mineral 'hard water' areas common in regional Australia.

Before adding water, use a soft, dry detailing brush to gently flick loose dust out of window rubbers and door seals. Adding water to heavy red dust creates a 'slurry' or mud that can seep deeper into the vehicle's internals. Removing the bulk of dry particles first reduces the amount of mud generated in the washing phase.

Start with the undercarriage. Use a pressure washer with an underbody attachment to flush chassis rails, suspension components, and the inside of wheel arches. Spend at least 15 minutes here. Red dust traps moisture and salt; flushing until the water runs clear is the only way to prevent chassis rot. Focus on the 'pockets' behind the mudflaps.

Apply a thick layer of pH-neutral snow foam to the entire vehicle, starting from the bottom and working up. Allow it to dwell for 5-7 minutes, but do not let it dry. The foam encapsulates the abrasive dust particles, lifting them away from the paint surface so they can be safely rinsed without scratching.

Rinse the snow foam thoroughly using a 40-degree nozzle held 30cm from the surface. Use a top-down approach. This step should remove 90% of the visible red dust. Pay extreme attention to window channels, door handles, and light housings where dust accumulates in thick layers.

On the still-wet vehicle, spray a generous amount of Iron Decontaminant over the paintwork and wheels. Within 2-3 minutes, you will see 'bleeding' (purple streaks). This is the chemical reaction of the product dissolving the iron oxide in the red dust. For heavy outback staining, use a soft damp sponge to spread the product evenly for better coverage.

Thoroughly rinse the iron remover. Next, apply your 10:1 APC to all plastic trims, rubber seals, and badges. Use a boar's hair brush to work the cleaner into the texture of the plastic. Red dust often stains black plastics orange; this agitation is necessary to pull the pigment out of the grain.

Use three buckets: one for soapy water, one for rinsing the mitt, and a third dedicated only to the wheels and lower sills. Wash the car using a high-lubricity shampoo. This removes any remaining film. Use a dedicated mitt for the bottom 20cm of the car, as this area holds the most abrasive grit.

While the car is soapy and wet, run a synthetic clay mitt over the paint. If the surface feels 'gritty' or 'sandpapery,' red dust particles are still embedded. The clay will shear these off. Keep the surface extremely lubricated to avoid 'clay marring'—fine scratches caused by the clay itself.

Open all doors and the tailgate. Use a damp microfibre cloth to wipe down the inner door jambs. Red dust often bypasses primary seals. Clean the rubber gaskets with a dedicated rubber cleaner to prevent them from drying out and cracking in the 40°C+ heat.

Perform a final rinse using a 'sheeting' method (low pressure, open hose) to pull water off the panels. Dry the vehicle using a high-GSM (1000+) microfibre drying towel. In high-heat conditions, use a drying aid or 'quick detailer' to provide lubrication and prevent water spotting from the rapid evaporation.

Apply a high-quality SiO2 sealant or ceramic spray. This fills the microscopic pores of the paint, making the surface 'slick.' A slick surface prevents the fine red dust from adhering during your next trip, making future removals significantly easier. Buff to a high shine with a clean microfibre.

Apply a water-based, UV-inhibiting dressing to all external plastics and tyres. Avoid petroleum-based dressings, which actually attract dust like a magnet. A quality UV protectant (like Aerospace 303) prevents the sun from 'baking' any missed dust into the trim.