Professional Motorcycle Detailing and Environmental Protection Guide

Never detail a motorcycle that has been recently ridden. Ensure the engine, exhaust, and brakes are cool to the touch. In summer temperatures, work must be performed under a carport or professional gazebo. Working on hot surfaces causes chemicals to flash-dry, leading to permanent chemical etching on aluminium and plastic.

Identify sensitive areas. Use low-tack painter's tape and cling wrap to cover exposed air filters (especially pod filters), spark plug wells, and aftermarket USB ports. Insert an exhaust bung or wrap the muffler tip in a plastic bag secured with a rubber band to prevent water ingress into the packing.

Prepare your wash buckets using the 'Two-Bucket Method' with grit guards. Mix your snow foam at a ratio of 1:9 (product to water) in a foam cannon. Predilute your All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) into labelled spray bottles. Having everything mixed prevents delays during the wash when the sun is moving.

Conduct a walk-around with a torch. Look for oil leaks, loose bolts, or frayed cables that might be exacerbated by high-pressure water. Note areas with heavy bug accumulation on the headlight and radiator, as these will require specific pre-treatment with an enzyme-based bug remover.

Before applying water, use a soft brush to flick away loose red dust from the chain and sprocket area. Apply a dedicated chain cleaner (non-chlorinated) to the drive chain. Use a 'grunge brush' to agitate all four sides of the links. This prevents greasy 'sling' from contaminating your clean wash mitts later in the process.

Apply a thick layer of PH-neutral snow foam to the entire bike, starting from the bottom and working up. Allow it to dwell for 4-6 minutes, but do not let it dry. This step is critical in Australia to encapsulate abrasive sand and dust, lifting it away from the paintwork before any physical contact is made.

Rinse the foam thoroughly using a wide-fan spray pattern. Maintain a distance of at least 30cm from the bike. Avoid directing high-pressure water at wheel bearings, the radiator core, or electrical connectors. The goal is to remove 90% of the surface grit safely.

Using a high-lubricity shampoo, wash the bike from top to bottom (Tank > Fairings > Seat > Frame > Wheels). Use the 'clean' mitt for the top and the 'dirty' mitt for the swingarm and lower engine. Rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket after every panel to ensure no grit is reintroduced to the paint.

Spray a diluted APC (10:1) onto the engine block and cooling fins. Use a long-reach boar's hair brush to scrub behind the headers and into the nooks of the crankcase. For stubborn road tar on the lower frame, use a citrus-based tar remover, allowing it to sit for 2 minutes before agitation.

Spray an iron fallout remover onto the wheels and brake calipers. Wait for the 'bleeding' effect (purple reaction), then rinse. If the fuel tank feels 'sandpapery', use a fine-grade clay bar with plenty of lubricant to remove embedded industrial fallout or bore-water spots common in rural areas.

Pat the paint dry with a microfibre towel. Use a filtered air blower (or a hair dryer on a cool setting) to chase water out of bolt heads, switchgear, and the radiator. Standing water in these areas leads to white corrosion spots on aluminium and can cause electrical gremlins in the ECU or dash.

If swirl marks are visible under the sun, use a dual-action polisher with a 3-inch pad and a fine finishing polish. Work in small sections (15cm x 15cm) on the tank and fairings. Given the thin clear coat on many bikes, use minimal pressure and check paint temperature frequently.

Apply a high-quality Si02 sealant or ceramic coating to all painted and plastic surfaces. In the Australian summer, choose a product with high thermal resistance. Apply in a cross-hatch pattern, allow to flash (usually 30-90 seconds depending on humidity), and buff with a fresh microfibre.

Treat plastic fenders and switchgear with a UV-blocking dressing (e.g., 303 Aerospace Protectant). For leather seats, apply a PH-neutral conditioner to prevent the sun from leaching natural oils, which leads to cracking. Avoid silicone-based 'shiny' dressings on seats as they make them dangerously slippery.

Clean mirrors and windscreens with an ammonia-free glass cleaner. If the bike has chrome (common on cruisers), use a dedicated metal polish to remove any heat-blueing or oxidation from the exhaust pipes, then seal with a high-heat wax.

Now that the chain is clean and dry, apply a high-quality ceramic or PTFE-based chain lube. Apply to the inside of the chain while rotating the wheel. Wipe off any excess with a rag to prevent 'fling' onto your freshly detailed rear wheel and swingarm.