Comprehensive Motorcycle Detailing and Protection Guide

Never detail a motorcycle with a hot engine. Thermal shock can crack cast components or cause chemicals to flash-dry and etch the surface instantly. Ensure the bike has been stationary for at least 2 hours. Use an infrared thermometer to confirm engine temps are below 35°C before applying any water or chemicals.

Identify sensitive areas. Use waterproof tape or cling wrap to cover the air intake, spark plug wells (on naked bikes), and exposed aftermarket electrical connectors. Insert an exhaust bung or wrap the muffler tip in a plastic bag secured with a rubber band to prevent water ingress into the baffling.

Prepare your buckets using the two-bucket method: one for soapy water and one for rinsing the mitt. Dilute your degreaser in a spray bottle according to the level of grime. For summer detailing, pre-mix your solutions with distilled water if your tap water has high mineral content (hard water) to minimize spotting.

Place the motorcycle on a paddock stand or centre stand if available. This allows for free rotation of the wheels for cleaning and ensures that water drains away from the engine cradle. Ensure you are working in a fully shaded area with a cool concrete floor to keep ambient temperatures down.

Before adding water, use a soft, dry detailing brush to flick away loose red dust and debris from around the fuel injectors and wiring loom. This prevents the dust from turning into a thick mud that can get pushed deeper into sensitive components during the pressure wash phase.

Apply a dedicated chain cleaner to the drive chain while rotating the rear wheel. Use a three-sided chain brush to agitate all four sides of the links. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes. This is the messiest part of the job; cleaning it first ensures grease splatter doesn't ruin your paintwork later.

Spray your diluted alkaline degreaser onto the engine block, swingarm, and lower frame. Use a long-reach soft brush to agitate the cooling fins. In Australian summer, work in sections to ensure the degreaser does not dry out. Rinse thoroughly with a low-pressure fan spray.

Apply iron remover to the rims and brake rotors. You will see a purple chemical reaction as it dissolves sintered brake dust. Use a dedicated wheel woolie to clean between the spokes. Rinse immediately—do not allow iron removers to dry on uncoated aluminium wheels as it can cause staining.

Cover the entire bike in a thick layer of snow foam. This encapsulates remaining grit and lubricates the surface. Let it dwell for 5 minutes, but keep an eye on it; if it begins to dry due to heat, rinse it off immediately. This step is critical for preventing swirl marks on soft motorcycle plastics.

Using a clean microfibre mitt, wash the bike from the top down (Tank -> Fairings -> Seat -> Lights). Use minimal pressure. Frequently rinse the mitt in the 'rinse' bucket to ensure no trapped grit is being dragged across the paint. For motorcycles, a smaller mitt or a 'wash wedge' is often better for tight gaps.

Once the bike is clean but still wet, use a clay bar and lubricant on the fuel tank and fairings. You will feel the 'drag' initially; keep working until the bar glides effortlessly. This removes embedded 'red dog' dust and sap that washing alone cannot touch. Rinse one final time.

This is the most important step for a motorcycle. Use a dedicated car dryer or leaf blower to blast water out of switchgear, bolt heads, the radiator core, and spark plug recesses. This prevents the 'white crust' of corrosion from forming on exposed alloy fasteners.

If the tank has scratches from riding gear, use a dual-action polisher with a 3-inch pad and a fine finishing polish. Work in small 20cm x 20cm sections. Motorcycle clear coats are often thinner than car paint, so use a light touch and check your progress frequently.

Wipe down all painted and metal surfaces with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution. This removes any leftover polishing oils or soap films, ensuring the ceramic coating or sealant can bond directly to the substrate for maximum durability against UV rays.

Apply 3-4 drops of ceramic coating to an applicator pad. Wipe onto the tank and fairings in a cross-hatch pattern. Wait for the coating to 'flash' (it will look like an oil slick), usually 1-2 minutes in 30°C heat, then buff off with a high-gsm microfibre towel. This provides the 9H hardness needed to resist dust scratching.

Apply a heat-resistant trim restorer to matte plastics and an engine-specific coating (like ACF-50) to exposed fasteners and the engine block. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that prevents salt and mud from sticking, making the next wash significantly easier.