Professional Chemical Decontamination and Iron Fallout Removal

Never perform an iron removal in direct Australian sunlight. Move the vehicle into a garage or under a large carport. The panels must be cool to the touch (below 30°C). If the vehicle has been driven recently, allow at least 60 minutes for the brakes and wheels to cool completely to prevent the chemical from flash-drying.

Perform a standard contact wash using a high-foaming pH-neutral soap. This removes 'topical' dirt, mud, and red dust. Iron removers work best when they can directly touch the paint surface rather than fighting through layers of road film or Outback grime. Dry the vehicle partially; a slightly damp surface is acceptable, but standing water will dilute the chemical.

The highest concentration of iron is found on the wheels. Clean the wheel arches thoroughly with an APC (All-Purpose Cleaner) first to ensure no hidden dirt falls onto the paint during the decontamination process. Ensure the braking system is free of heavy mud or salt crusts.

Put on your nitrile gloves and eye protection. The active ingredients in iron removers (mercaptoacetates) can cause skin irritation. Ensure the area is well-ventilated, as the chemical reaction produces a strong sulphur smell that can be overwhelming in enclosed garages.

Divide the vehicle into manageable sections: Wheels first, then lower sills, then rear hatch, then the rest of the body. In Australian summer conditions, the chemical will dry faster, so working in smaller 1m x 1m sections is safer than spraying the whole car at once.

Hold the sprayer 20-30cm from the surface and apply a fine, even mist. Start from the bottom of the panels and work upwards. On wheels, ensure you spray inside the barrel and around the brake calipers where iron accumulation is densest.

Allow the product to dwell for 3 to 5 minutes. You will observe a 'bleeding' effect where the clear liquid turns deep purple or red. This is the chemical reaction between the iron particles and the thioglycolate. Do not let the product dry on the paint.

For heavily contaminated areas like the front wheels or the rear bumper of a diesel 4x4, use a damp microfibre mitt or soft brush to gently agitate the purple slurry. This ensures the chemical reaches the bottom of the embedded pits.

If the product begins to dry due to high ambient temperature, lightly mist the panel with a small amount of water or more iron remover to keep it active. Never allow the purple residue to bake onto the clear coat.

Rinse the section thoroughly with a high-pressure cleaner. Start from the top and work down, ensuring all purple residue is flushed from gaps, badges, and window seals. Use plenty of water; the goal is to completely neutralise the surface.

Pay special attention to the wheels. Rotate the car slightly if necessary to reach the areas behind the spokes. Iron remover trapped in brake components can cause temporary squeaking, so ensure a 60-second direct rinse per wheel.

On heavily neglected vehicles, re-apply a small amount of product to a test area. If it still turns purple quickly, a second application is required to fully clear the pores of the paint.

While the surface is still lubricated with a dedicated clay lubricant, run a fine-grade clay bar over the paint. The iron remover has softened the particles, making the claying process much safer and reducing the risk of marring.

Perform a final quick wash with a high-lubricity car shampoo. This ensures any remaining chemical surfactants or dissolved metals are completely stripped from the surface before drying.

Dry the vehicle using a high-quality 1200GSM microfibre drying towel or a dedicated car dryer (air blower). Once dry, inspect the paint under a high-CRI LED light. The surface should be visually bright and feel completely smooth to the touch.