Mastering the Rotary Polisher for Professional Paint Correction

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash followed by mechanical decontamination. Use a medium-grade clay bar with plenty of lubricant to remove embedded red dust and industrial fallout. A rotary polisher will pick up any remaining grit and grind it into the paint, creating deep 'pig-tail' scratches.

Using a Paint Depth Gauge, take 5-10 readings per panel. Modern clear coats are often only 35-50 microns thick. If you find readings below 80 microns (total thickness including primer/base), proceed with extreme caution or switch to a DA polisher, as a rotary removes material much faster.

Apply high-quality automotive masking tape (e.g., 3M Blue or Kamoi Rice Paper tape) to all plastic trim, rubber seals, and panel gaps. Rotary pads generate high heat and can melt plastic trim or 'burn' through paint on sharp body lines in seconds.

Position high-CRI LED work lights at various angles to reveal 'holograms' and 'buffer trails.' Ensure you are working in a fully shaded area. In Australian summer, garage floors can radiate heat; if working on a concrete slab, ensure the vehicle has cooled for at least 2 hours before starting.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Work the product into the foam or wool fibres with your fingers to ensure even coverage. This prevents 'dry buffing,' which is the leading cause of heat build-up and paint damage.

Set your machine to its lowest setting (usually 600-800 RPM) for spreading the product. For the actual correction phase, you will typically work between 1200 and 1500 RPM. Never exceed 2000 RPM on modern clear coats.

Place the pad on the surface and spread the compound over a 50cm x 50cm area before turning the machine on. Alternatively, use the 'beading' method: lay a thin line of compound and tilt the rotary slightly to 'pick up' the product as you move, ensuring no splatter (sling) occurs.

A rotary rotates clockwise. The most effective cutting occurs at the '10 o'clock' to '11 o'clock' position of the pad. Hold the machine slightly biased so this section makes the most contact, but keep the pad as flat as possible to avoid concentrated heat.

Move the machine at a rate of approximately 2-3cm per second. Unlike a DA, you do not need to apply heavy downward pressure; the weight of the machine and the rotation handle the work. Keep the machine moving constantly to avoid localized heat spikes.

Work in a grid pattern: three horizontal passes followed by three vertical passes. Ensure a 50% overlap on each pass to guarantee uniform removal of defects and to prevent leaving unpolished 'strips' on the panel.

Periodically touch the panel with the back of your hand. If it feels uncomfortably hot (above 50°C), stop immediately. In high Australian ambient temperatures, paint softens, making it easier to 'strike through' the clear coat into the base colour.

Watch the compound. It will start as an opaque film and turn into a clear, oily translucent film. This indicates the abrasives have broken down (if using DAT). Once the film is clear, stop polishing to avoid dry-buffing the residue into the paint.

Spray the section with a 20% IPA solution and wipe with a clean microfibre. This is crucial as polishing oils can 'fill' scratches, giving a false impression of a perfect finish. Inspect with a high-powered torch to check for holograms.

Switch to a finishing foam pad and a fine polish. Lower the speed to 1000 RPM. This step is mandatory after rotary compounding to remove the 'buffer trails' or holograms that the heavy cutting stage inevitably leaves behind.

When approaching edges or swage lines, always ensure the rotation of the pad is spinning *away* from the edge, not into it. Spinning into an edge will strip the paint off the sharp corner instantly.

Clean your pad after every single section using a pad spur (for wool) or a stiff nylon brush (for foam). Spent polish and removed paint (residue) clog the pad, reducing effectiveness and increasing heat.