Mastering the Art of Paint Correction in the Aussie Bush

Wash the car thoroughly. I mean properly. Use a strip wash soap or chuck a bit of APC (All Purpose Cleaner) in your foam lance to get rid of any old waxes or sealants. Use the two-bucket method so you're not just dragging dirt around.

Spray the iron remover over the dry paint. Let it sit for 3-5 mins (don't let it dry!). It'll turn purple as it dissolves the brake dust and rail dust. Rinse it off thoroughly.

While the car is still wet, use your clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lube. Run it over the paint until it feels smooth as glass. If it feels 'gritty' through your fingers, keep going. This step is vital because any grit left will get caught in your polishing pad and scratch the crap out of the paint.

Dry the car. Use a blower if you've got one to get water out of the mirrors and badges. Water dripping onto your pad while polishing is a pain in the bum, it makes the polish splatter everywhere.

Mask off all the unpainted black plastics, rubber window seals, and any badges. It takes 20 minutes now but saves you two hours of scrubbing white residue off your trim later. (Trust me on this one).

Always start with a test spot on the bonnet or boot. Start with your least aggressive combo (finishing polish and a light pad). If that fixes the swirls, great! If not, move up to the compound. Every car's clear coat is different, some are hard like granite, some are soft like butter.

Put 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound on your fresh foam pad. Rub it into the surface of the pad with your finger to 'prime' it. This ensures the whole pad has abrasive on it and prevents 'dry buffing'.

Don't try to do the whole door at once. Work in a 50cm x 50cm square. It's about the size of a large microfibre towel.

Dab the pad around your 50cm square, then start the machine on speed 1 to spread the polish out evenly.

Turn the speed up to 4 or 5. Move the polisher in a slow, overlapping 'S' pattern. Go left to right, then up and down. You want to move about 2-3cm per second. Slow is fast here, mate.

Don't lean on the polisher like you're trying to crush a grape. Just the weight of your arms is usually enough. If you press too hard, the DA pad will stop spinning (stall) and you won't be doing anything but vibrating.

Touch the paint occasionally. It should be warm, not hot. If it's too hot to keep your hand on, stop and let it cool. High heat can delaminate clear coat, especially on plastic bumpers.

After 4-5 passes, turn off the machine. Use your IPA spray and a clean microfibre to wipe away the residue. Grab your inspection light and check the results. Are the scratches gone? If yes, move to the next section.

Every section or two, use your brush to flick the dried polish out of the pad while the machine is spinning. This keeps the cut consistent.

Once the whole car is compounded, swap to your finishing pad and polish. Repeat the process on speed 3-4. This removes the 'haze' and brings out that deep clarity.

If you can, pull the car out into the direct sun before you apply any wax. The sun is the ultimate truth-teller. It'll show you any spots you missed or any 'holidays' (missed patches).

Do one last wipedown of the entire car with IPA to ensure the surface is completely bare and ready for protection.