What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you've been doing the hard yards out in the red dirt or just daily driving through the Aussie summer, your paint is probably looking a bit sad. This guide is all about taking things to the next level with a machine polisher. I'm going to walk you through the gear you actually need and the techniques I've used for over 15 years to fix everything from swirl marks to those nasty bat dropping stains. It's not as scary as it looks, trust me.
Let's Get Your Paint Right
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Prep is Everything (Don't Skip This)
The Decontamination Wash
Give the car a proper wash using the two-bucket method. Use a strip wash soap or chuck a bit of APC (All Purpose Cleaner) in the bucket to get rid of old waxes. If you've been near the coast or outback, make sure you've blasted every bit of salt and red dust out of the cracks.
Clay Bar the Surface
Run your hand over the paint. If it feels like sandpaper, it's got contaminants. Use plenty of lube and a clay mitt. If you skip this, the polisher will just pick up that grit and grind it into your paint. I once saw a mate try to polish a dusty ute without claying, it looked like he'd used a scouring pad by the time he was done.
Tape Off the Trim
Tape up any black plastic trim, rubber seals, and badges. Polishing pads will turn black plastic white, and it's a massive pain to get off later. (The missus won't be happy if you ruin the trim on her SUV, trust me).
The Polishing Process
Prime the Pad
Put 4 or 5 pea-sized drops of polish onto your foam pad. Don't go overboard; more polish doesn't mean more shine, it just makes a mess.
Dab and Spread
With the machine OFF, dab the pad around a small 50cm x 50cm area. This stops the polish from flinging everywhere (we call that 'sling') when you pull the trigger.
The First Pass
Turn the machine on at a low speed (Setting 1 or 2) and spread the polish evenly across your work area. No pressure needed, just let the machine sit there.
Crank It Up
Turn the speed up to 4 or 5. This is where the magic happens. You want to move the machine slowly, about 2-3 centimetres per second. If you move too fast, you won't remove the defects.
The Cross-Hatch Pattern
Move the machine in overlapping horizontal lines, then switch to vertical lines. This ensures you've hit every square millimetre of the section.
Watch the Polish Work
You'll see the polish go from creamy to a clear film. Usually, 4-5 passes is enough. If it starts getting dusty, stop, you're working it too long.
Wipe and Inspect
Use a clean microfibre to buff off the residue. Now, spray some IPA or panel wipe on the area and wipe again. This is the moment of truth. Check it with your light. Still see scratches? Do another set of passes.
Clean Your Pad
After every single section, use your brush to flick the dried polish out of the pad. If the pad gets 'caked', it won't cut, and it'll get too hot. Heat is the enemy of Aussie clear coats.
Switch Pads Often
Don't try to do the whole car with one pad. After 2 or 3 panels, the foam will be soft and saturated. Chuck it in a bucket of water and grab a fresh, dry one.
Watch Out
Dealing with Bat and Bird Bombs
Watch Out
Keep it Looking Mint
Your Questions Answered
Can I polish a ceramic coated car?
How often should I polish my car?
What if my pad keeps flying off?
Is a rotary or DA better for beginners?
Do I need to polish a brand new car?
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