What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, owning a convertible in Australia is great until you realize our sun wants to eat fabric for breakfast. Between the red dust and the salt air, these roofs need more than just a quick hose down at the servo. I've put this together to show you exactly how I handle soft tops in my own shop, focusing on keeping that fabric dark and the water beading off like a duck's back.
The Reality of Soft Tops in Australia
What You'll Need in Your Kit
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
Park in the shade
Never, ever do this in direct sunlight. If the roof is hot to the touch, the cleaner will dry before it can work, and you'll end up with nasty streaks. Give it an hour in the garage first.
The Dry Deep Clean
Before you get anything wet, vacuum the roof thoroughly. Use the soft brush attachment. This gets the loose red dust and grit out of the weave rather than turning it into mud once you add water.
Masking Off
Tape down some plastic over your windows and paintwork. Fabric protectants are a nightmare to get off glass once they dry. Trust me, spending ten minutes masking now saves you two hours of scrubbing later.
The Deep Clean and Protect Process
Wet the roof down
Use a gentle stream of water. No pressure washers here, you'll blow the seals or tear the fabric if you're not careful.
Apply the cleaner
Spray your cleaner evenly across the roof. Work in sections, maybe a quarter of the roof at a time so it doesn't dry out.
Agitate gently
Use your soft brush in circular motions. You'll see the suds turn brown or grey, that's years of Aussie road grime coming out. I once spent three hours scrubbing an old MX-5 that had been sitting under a gum tree; the water coming off it looked like coffee.
Rinse thoroughly
Keep rinsing until the water runs completely clear and there are no bubbles left. Any soap left in the fibres will attract dirt later.
The Pat Dry
Don't rub the microfibre towel. Pat the roof to soak up the bulk of the water. Now, you need to let it dry completely. And I mean bone dry. If there's moisture in the fibres when you seal it, you're just trapping it in there.
Check for lint
Once dry, run a lint roller over the roof. You'd be surprised how much fluff stays behind, and you don't want to seal that under your coating.
Apply the first coat of sealant
Spray your protectant in even, overlapping strokes. Don't soak it to the point of dripping, just a nice even mist.
Work it in (Optional)
Some guys like to use a clean sponge to lightly move the sealant around to ensure total coverage. I reckon it's a good idea for older, thirstier roofs.
Apply a second coat
Wait about 20-30 minutes, then hit it again. Two thin coats are always better than one thick, messy one.
The Cure
Leave the car in the garage for at least 12-24 hours. If it gets rained on before it cures, you'll get white spots and have to start all over again. (Ask me how I know...)
Watch Out
Dealing with the Green Stuff
Watch Out
Keeping it Mint
Common Questions from the Workshop
Can I use a regular interior fabric cleaner?
How often should I waterproof my roof?
My roof is looking faded, will this bring the colour back?
Can I put the top down while it's wet?
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