Trusted by 50,000+ Aussie drivers
Car Washing & Drying beginner 7 min read

Keeping Your Ride Mint: The Weekly Maintenance Routine

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Don't let the Aussie sun and salt eat your paint. Here is how I keep my clients' cars looking showroom fresh with a simple, effective weekly wash that actually protects your investment.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 5 March 2026
Keeping Your Ride Mint: The Weekly Maintenance Routine

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've spent over 15 years cleaning everything from beat-up farm utes to high-end Ferraris, and the biggest mistake people make is thinking they only need to wash the car once a month. In Australia, especially heading into Autumn, that's just not going to cut it. This guide covers my personal routine for a safe, scratch-free weekly wash that handles our brutal UV and local grime. It's for anyone who actually gives a toss about their car's resale value or just wants it looking sharp at the Friday arvo drinks.

01

Why Bother Every Week?

Right, let's be honest. Most people reckon a weekly wash is overkill. But after a decade and a half in the trade, I've seen what happens when you leave bat poop or red dust sitting on a bonnet for three weeks in 35-degree heat. It's not pretty. Our sun is basically a laser beam for your clear coat. If you've got bird droppings sitting there, they'll literally etch into the paint within hours. I once had a customer bring in a black Commodore that had been parked under a gum tree for a fortnight. The sap and droppings had eaten so deep I had to sand the paint back. Lesson learned: catching it early saves you thousands in paint correction later. A quick weekly hit removes the salt if you're near the coast and keeps that 'just polished' glow without needing a full day's work every time.
02

The Essential Gear

What You'll Need

0/8
Two 15L Buckets — One for soapy water, one for rinsing your mitt. Trust me, it's a game changer.
Grit Guards — Those plastic inserts for the bottom of the bucket. They keep the dirt away from your mitt.
Microfibre Wash Mitt — Ditch the sponge. Sponges are stone-traps that'll swirl your paint to hell.
Quality Car Wash Soap — Grab something like Bowden's Own Nanolicious or Meguiar's Gold Class. No dish soap!
Wheel Cleaner — Non-acidic is the way to go. P&S Brake Buster is my current go-to.
Large Microfibre Drying Towel — Something like a 'Big Green Sucker'. Chamois are old school and risky.
Dedicated Wheel Brush — A soft one to get into the barrels and around the lug nuts.
Quick Detailer or Spray Sealant — To top up the protection and add some 'pop' at the end.
03

Getting Ready

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Find some shade

Never, ever wash a car in direct midday sun if you can help it. The water dries too fast, leaving nasty spots. If you've gotta do it outside, wait until later in the arvo or early morning.

02

Wheel First Rule

I always start with the wheels. They're the dirtiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash brake dust and grime onto your clean paint. Use a separate bucket for the wheels too.

03

The Pre-Rinse

Give the whole car a good blast with the hose or pressure washer. You want to get as much loose grit off as possible before you even touch the paint with a mitt.

04

The Step-by-Step Routine

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Clean the wheels and tyres

Spray your wheel cleaner on cool rims. Use your brush to agitated the brake dust, then scrub the tyre sidewalls. Rinse 'em off thoroughly.

02

Snow Foam (Optional but recommended)

If you've got a foam cannon, chuck some foam on and let it dwell for 5 minutes. This breaks down the road film. If not, don't sweat it, just move to the next step.

03

Set up your buckets

Fill one with fresh water and the other with your car soap and water. Put your grit guards in both.

04

The Top-Down Method

Dunk your mitt in the soapy water and start at the roof. Work your way down. The bottom of the car is always the grimiest, so leave that for last.

05

Rinse the mitt often

After every panel, dunk the dirty mitt in your rinse bucket, give it a shake, then go back into the soap bucket. This keeps the dirt in the rinse bucket, not on your car.

06

Wash in straight lines

Avoid circular motions. If you do catch a bit of grit, a straight-line scratch is way easier to polish out than a swirl mark.

07

Address the 'Bug Zone'

For the front bumper and mirrors, use a bit more soap. If there's dried-on bugs, don't scrub hard. Lay a soapy cloth over them for a minute to soften them up.

08

Final Rinse

Flood the paint with a steady stream of water. If you've got a good wax or coating, the water should just sheet right off, making drying ten times easier.

09

The Drying Phase

Lay your big microfibre towel across the flat surfaces and just pull it towards you. No need to rub. Door jams and mirrors usually need a quick wipe too so they don't drip later.

10

Glass and Mirrors

I reckon a dedicated glass towel is worth the ten bucks. Give the windows a wipe so you don't get water stains. Nothing ruins a clean car like streaky glass.

Pro Tip: Dealing with Red Dust

If you've just come back from a trip out west and the car is caked in that fine red dust, do not touch it with a mitt straight away. I've seen blokes ruin their paint in one go doing that. Use a pressure washer for a good 10 minutes first, getting into every nook and cranny. Then, use a high-lubricity soap. That dust is basically sandpaper.

Watch Out

Seriously, stop using Morning Fresh or whatever is under the kitchen sink. Dish soap is designed to strip grease, which means it'll strip every bit of wax or sealant off your car. After 15 years, I can tell a 'dish soap car' from a mile away, the paint looks dull, chalky, and has zero protection against the sun.
05

The Finishing Touches

Once the car's dry, I like to spend five minutes doing what I call the 'insurance policy'. Grab a spray sealant (something like Gtechniq C2 or even a ceramic detailer) and give each panel a quick mist and wipe. It adds a sacrificial layer of protection. This is especially important in Autumn as we get more rain and those nasty south-easterly winds bringing salt in. Also, don't forget the tyres. A bit of tyre shine makes the whole car look ten times better, but don't overdo it. You don't want that 'sling' flicking back onto your clean doors when you drive off to the servo. Usually, I'll apply it, let it sit for ten minutes, then give it a light wipe with an old rag to take off the excess.
06

Common Questions

Can I just go to the automatic brush wash?
How do I get rid of bat droppings?
My car is ceramic coated, do I still need to do this?
Is it okay to wash the car in the garage?
07

Wrap Up

At the end of the day, it's about consistency. Spend an hour on it every weekend and you won't have to spend a weekend on it every year. Plus, there's nothing better than heading out for a Sunday drive in a car that looks mint. Give it a crack this weekend, you'll thank yourself when it comes time to trade it in. Cheers!

Trusted by 50,000+ Aussie car owners

Professional advice for Australian conditions

4.9/5
4,600+ Guides

Products We Recommend

View All →
pH Neutral Snow Foam
Bowden's Own

pH Neutral Snow Foam

$39.95 View
The Rag Company

Microfibre Towels 400GSM (10-Pack)

$39.95 View
Iron Remover / Wheel Cleaner
CarPro

Iron Remover / Wheel Cleaner

$29.95 View
Ceramic Coating 9H
Gyeon

Ceramic Coating 9H

$89.95 View

Keep Learning

Ready to level up your car care?

You've got the knowledge—now put it into action. Explore more guides or check out our recommended products.

Get Weekly Car Care Tips

Join 12,000+ Aussie car enthusiasts

Browse All Guides

Keep Reading