How to Properly Clean Your 4x4 After an Outback or Coastal Trip

Never, ever wash a car in direct Aussie sun if you can help it. The water and soap will dry instantly, leaving spots that are harder to remove than the mud itself. If you've got no shade, wait until the 'arvo' when the sun is low.

Let the engine and brakes cool for at least 30 minutes. Spraying cold water on hot brake rotors can warp them, and it'll just steam up the engine bay, making it hard to see what you're doing.

Take off the recovery boards, the shovel, and the high-lift jack. Mud hides behind these mounts. If you've got a roof rack, check the channels, they'll be full of leaves and dust.

If the car is covered in loose, dry red dust, I sometimes use a soft brush or compressed air to get the big clumps out of the window seals and door jambs before they get wet and turn into sludge.

Just a quick check for any bird nests or stuck spinifex grass near the intake. I've seen cars catch fire because people didn't clear the grass from near the exhaust manifold after a trip.

Start from the bottom. Use your underbody wand to flush the chassis rails. Spend a good 20 minutes here. If the water coming out is still brown, keep going. Stick the hose in the drainage holes of the chassis until clear water runs out.

Cover the alternator and air intake with plastic bags. Use a light spray of degreaser, agitate with a brush, and rinse with *low* pressure. Don't go nuts with the pressure washer here or you'll be calling a tow truck for an electrical fault.

Rinse the whole body with water to knock off the heavy stuff. Start from the roof and work down. Pay extra attention to the wheel arches and inside the bumpers.

Chuck your snow foam on. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This chemicals-only stage breaks down the static bond of the dirt.

While the foam is on, use a small brush to go around badges, window seals, and the fuel cap. This is where red dust loves to live.

High pressure rinse to get that foam and the loosened grit off the paint.

Now you actually touch the car. One bucket with soapy water (I like Meguiar's Gold Class), one with clean water. Wash a panel, rinse the mitt in the clean water, then dunk back in the soap. This keeps your wash water clean.

Use a dedicated wheel cleaner. For 4x4 tyres, I use a stiff scrub brush to get the brown oxidation off the sidewalls. It makes a huge difference to the finished look.

After rinsing, spray an iron remover on the lower panels. If it turns purple, it's working. This gets rid of the microscopic metallic bits from your brakes and outback soil.

Don't forget the bits you only see when the doors are open. Use a damp microfiber to wipe away the dust build-up here. (The missus will definitely notice if you miss this bit).

One last flood rinse. I like to take the nozzle off the hose and just let the water 'sheet' off the paint to reduce drying time.

Pat the car dry with your large microfiber towel. Don't 'scrub' it dry. If you've got a leaf blower, use it to blow water out of the door handles and light housings.

Use a dedicated glass cleaner and two towels, one to wipe, one to buff. Clean windows make the whole car look ten times better.

Apply a water-based tyre dressing. Avoid the cheap oily stuff that flings down the side of your car the moment you drive off.