Getting Rid Of Water Spots Without Ruining Your Paint

You'll hear old-timers tell you to just chuck some white vinegar on it. Look, it can work because it's acidic, but it's also bloody thin and runs everywhere. I reckon you're better off using a dedicated water spot remover like Bowden's Own 'Fine Print' or Meguiar's Water Spot Remover. They've got a bit more 'cling' to them so the product actually sits on the spot and dissolves the mineral, rather than just running onto your driveway. (Plus, your car won't smell like a fish and chip shop for a week).

This sounds like Detailing 101, but you'd be surprised how many blokes I see washing their utes at midday. In our summer, the water dries before you've even put the hose down. Always wash in the shade or early morning. If you're out bush and dealing with bore water, this is even more critical. Bore water is loaded with minerals that'll etch your paint faster than you can say 'no dramas'.

Run your finger over the spot. If it feels raised, it's just a mineral deposit sitting on top. A chemical remover will shift that easily. If it feels like a little crater or you can't feel it at all but can see it, it's likely 'etched' into the clear coat. At that point, chemicals won't do squat, you'll need a light polish to level the paint. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, spent an hour scrubbing with chemicals when I should've just grabbed the DA polisher from the start.

Prevention is better than cure, right? Every time you wash, use a drying aid or a 'spray and walk away' sealant like Gtechniq C2. It adds a layer of lubrication so your towel doesn't scratch, and it helps the water sheet off. If you're near the coast with all that salt spray, having a decent sealant on there makes it way harder for water spots to actually 'bite' into the paint.