How to Get a Professional Detail at Home Without Breaking the Bank

Never, ever detail your car in direct sunlight. The water and soap will dry too fast and leave spots that are a nightmare to remove. Find a shady spot or do it early in the morning/late in the arvo.

Run your hand over the clean paint. Feel that sandpaper texture? That's embedded contaminants. Knowing how bad it is helps you decide how much claying you'll need to do.

I always start with the wheels. Why? Because if you wash the car first, then do the wheels, you'll splash wheel grime back onto your clean paint. Plus, it gives the rest of the car a chance to stay cool.

Get your buckets filled, your foam cannon mixed, and your towels ready. There's nothing worse than being mid-wash and realizing your drying towel is still in the laundry.

Some of these chemicals (especially iron removers) are pretty nasty. Chuck some gloves on. Trust me, your skin will thank you later, and some of that stuff smells like rotten eggs anyway.

Spray your wheel cleaner on dry wheels. Let it sit for 2-3 mins (don't let it dry!). Agitate with your brushes, getting into the barrels and the lug nuts. Rinse thoroughly.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the entire dry car. This isn't just for the 'Gram; it encapsulates loose dirt and pulls it off the surface. Let it dwell for 5 mins.

Rinse the foam off from the top down. Pay close attention to window seals, door handles, and badges where dirt loves to hide.

One bucket with soapy water, one with plain water. Dip your mitt in soap, wash a panel, then rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket to drop the dirt. This keeps your soapy water clean.

While the car is still wet, spray an iron remover over the paint. If you see purple streaks, that's the chemical reacting with metal particles. Rinse it off after a few minutes.

Use plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine) and glide your clay mitt over the paint. It should start to feel smooth as silk. If the mitt 'grabs', use more lube.

Give the whole car one last thorough rinse to make sure all the clay lube and loosened grit are gone.

Lay your large microfibre towel across the bonnet and pull it towards you. Don't scrub; let the towel do the work. Use a blower if you've got one for the mirrors and gaps.

If you aren't doing a full polish, use a paint cleanser. This removes old waxes and prepares the surface for the new protection to bond properly.

Work one panel at a time. If using a ceramic spray, spray it on a microfibre applicator, wipe it over the panel, and buff off immediately with a clean towel.

Clean the glass with a dedicated glass cleaner. Apply a trim restorer to any black plastics to keep them from greying out in the sun.

Apply your dressing to the sidewalls. Less is more here. Let it dry for 15 mins before driving to avoid 'sling'.

Don't forget the bits you only see when the door is open. Give them a quick wipe with a damp microfibre and some quick detailer.

Grab a torch or use the sun to check for any high spots (streaks) from your sealant. Buff them out now while they're fresh.