What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all seen it, that crusty, yellow oxidation that makes a perfectly good car look like it's been sitting in a paddock for twenty years. Between our brutal Aussie sun and the salt spray if you live near the coast, plastic headlights take an absolute beating. This guide is for anyone who wants to stop squinting at night and get their car looking sharp again using stuff you can grab from the local shops.
Why Your Headlights Look Like Crap
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
Wash the car
Give the whole front end a good scrub. You don't want red dust or road grime getting caught in your sandpaper and deep-scratching the lens. Dry it off completely.
Mask the paint
This is the most important prep step. Tape off the paintwork around the headlight. Use two or three layers of tape. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore once, one slip with the sandpaper and you're suddenly doing a paint repair job you didn't bargain for.
Pop the bonnet
It gives you better access to the top edges of the light and stops you from scuffing the underside of the hood.
The Step-by-Step Restoration
The First Cut (800 Grit)
Soak your 800-grit paper in your spray bottle for 5 minutes. Spray the lens liberally and start sanding in horizontal motions. It's going to look terrifying, the water will turn milky yellow. That's the dead UV coating coming off. Keep it wet!
Check your work
Wipe the lens dry. It should look uniform and frosty. If you see clear 'islands' or spots, you haven't sanded deep enough. Keep going until it's an even matte finish.
Switch Directions (1500 Grit)
Now move to 1500 grit. This time, sand vertically. By changing direction, you can see when you've sanded out the scratches from the previous 800-grit stage. When the horizontal lines are gone, you're ready to move on.
Refine (2500-3000 Grit)
Go back to horizontal strokes with your finest paper. Spend a good 5-10 minutes here. The smoother you get it now, the easier the polishing will be. The lens should start to look slightly translucent when wet.
Dry and Inspect
Dry the lens completely. It should look like frosted glass. If there are any deep gouges left, you've rushed it. Go back a step if you have to, I've had to do this plenty of times when I've been impatient.
The Polishing Stage
Apply a pea-sized amount of compound to a microfibre pad. Work it into the lens in small circular motions with a fair bit of elbow grease. If you have a cordless drill with a small polishing pad, even better, just watch the heat!
Buff to Clarity
Wipe away the residue with a clean cloth. You should see that 'crystal clear' look returning. If it's still a bit hazy, hit it with the polish one more time.
De-grease
Spray some IPA (diluted 50/50 with water) or a dedicated panel prep on a cloth and wipe the lens. This removes any oils from the polish so your sealant actually sticks.
Apply Protection
Apply your UV sealant or ceramic coating. Follow the bottle's instructions to the letter. Don't do this in direct sunlight or the stuff will flash off before you can level it out.
Cure Time
Give it at least an hour (check the product label) before you drive. Keep it away from water and dust while it sets. No trips to the servo for a meat pie just yet.
Pro Tip: The Water Trick
Watch Out
Keeping Them Clear
Common Questions
Can I just use WD-40?
How long will this last?
What if the cloudiness is on the inside?
Is it worth buying a kit?
Final Thoughts
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