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Paint Protection intermediate 3 min read

Winter Paint Protection Checklist

Your paint is under constant attack: UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. Protection isn't optional—it's essential.

Autumn is kicking in and the weather's about to turn. Before the winter rain and road grime set in, you need to get a solid layer of protection on your paint to handle the leftover summer UV and upcoming damp.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 18 March 2026
Winter Paint Protection Checklist

Aussie Conditions

Our intense UV breaks down waxes faster than overseas. Ceramic coatings last longer, but even they need topped up more frequently here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've spent 15 years polishing cars in this country and I've seen what happens when you skip an Autumn detail. Between the leftover bat poo from summer and the coastal salt spray that hits harder in winter, your clear coat takes a beating. This checklist is exactly what I do for my regulars to get their rigs ready for the colder months. It's not about a showroom shine (though that's a bonus), it's about making sure the car is easier to wash when it's freezing outside.

01

The Gear You'll Need

What You'll Need

0/8
Good quality pH neutral car wash — I reckon Bowden's Own Nanolicious is hard to beat for Aussie conditions.
Clay bar or clay mitt — Essential for getting that red dust out of the pores of the paint.
Iron fallout remover — Get something like Gtechniq W6. It'll turn purple as it eats the brake dust.
A solid sealant or wax — Use a synthetic sealant like Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic, it lasts longer than traditional carnauba in our sun.
Two 15L buckets — One for soapy water, one for rinsing. Don't be that person who uses one bucket.
Microfibre wash mitt — Chuck your old sponges in the bin, they're just scratch-makers.
Large microfibre drying towel — The big 'puffle' style ones are great. No chamois please!
IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipe or panel prep — To strip any old wax so the new stuff actually sticks.
02

Pre-Start Inspection

What You'll Need

0/4
Check for bird/bat droppings — If they've etched the paint, a simple wash won't fix it. You'll need a light polish.
Feel the paint — Run your hand in a plastic sandwich bag over the bonnet. If it feels like sandpaper, you definitely need to clay it.
Inspect the wiper blades — They've likely dried out over summer. Better to swap them now than in a mid-arvo storm.
Find some shade — Never do this in direct sunlight. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, the product baked on and took me hours to buff off.
03

The Winter Prep Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Deep Clean Wheels

Clean these first while the car is cool. Use the iron remover to get rid of metallic grit that loves to rust in winter humidity.

02

Two-Bucket Wash

Wash from top to bottom. This removes the surface dirt and any leftover salt spray if you've been near the coast lately.

03

Decontamination

Spray the iron remover on the paint, then use the clay bar with plenty of lubricant. This gets the 'invisible' dirt off the surface.

04

Dry and Prep

Dry the car thoroughly. Use the IPA wipe to remove any remaining oils. This is the secret to making your protection last 6 months instead of 6 weeks.

05

Apply Protection

Apply your sealant in sections. A customer once brought in a car where they'd done the whole thing at once, it was a nightmare to remove. Small bits at a time.

06

Door Jambs and Seals

Don't forget to wipe down the inside of the doors. Apply a bit of rubber protectant to the seals so they don't stick or perish.

04

Final Inspection

What You'll Need

0/3
Check for 'high spots' — Use a torch to look for cloudy patches where you might've missed some sealant. Buff them out now.
Glass check — Make sure you didn't get sealant on the windscreen, it'll make your wipers smear like crazy.
Tyre shine — I prefer a water-based dressing. The greasy stuff just flings down the side of the car the first time you hit a puddle.

Watch Out

Don't use dish soap. It'll strip your plastic trims faster than the Aussie sun. Also, if you're using a pressure washer, don't get too close to any stone chips or you'll turn a small flake into a massive peel. Keep back about 30cm and you'll be right.

Expert Tip

If you've got red dust stuck in your window seals from a trip out west, use a soft toothbrush and some soapy water to get it out before you start. If you don't, it'll just bleed out and ruin your fresh sealant job the first time it rains.

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