Elite Show Car Preparation and Paint Preservation

Ideally, work indoors or under a high-clearance carport. If working in a garage, use industrial fans to circulate air. Use your IR temp gun to ensure the vehicle panels are below 30°C. In a 40°C Australian summer, you may need to perform the wash at 6:00 AM to prevent water spotting and chemical evaporation.

Start with a high-alkaline snow foam (e.g., NV Snow) to strip old waxes and loosen red dust. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes but do not let it dry. Rinse thoroughly, then apply a pH-neutral iron remover to the entire body. This dissolves microscopic metal particles from coastal environments and brake rotors that cause 'rust blooms' in the paint.

While the car is wet, use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant. Glide the bar in straight lines (never circles) until the 'gritty' sound disappears. This removes bonded sap, industrial fallout, and stubborn bug guts that a wash cannot touch. This step is vital for ensuring the polisher doesn't drag contaminants across the paint.

Use automotive-grade masking tape (blue or green) to cover all rubber seals, unpainted plastic trim, and emblems. High-speed polishers can instantly burn through rubber or leave white staining on textured plastics that is nearly impossible to remove.

Visually inspect the paint under high-intensity LED lighting (5000K-6000K) to identify swirl marks, RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches), and water etching. If you have a paint depth gauge, check the thickness to ensure there is enough clear coat remaining for a two-stage correction.

Apply 4 pea-sized drops of heavy compound to a wool or microfiber cutting pad. Work in a 50cm x 50cm section. Start the DA polisher on speed 1 to spread, then increase to speed 4-5. Use slow, overlapping passes (2.5cm per second) with moderate downward pressure. This removes the top layer of oxidized paint and deep swirls.

Buff away the compound residue immediately using a clean microfibre. Use a 50/50 mix of IPA and distilled water to strip the polishing oils. Inspect the section with a torch. You are looking for a uniform, matte-free surface, though some micro-marring from the heavy cut is normal at this stage.

Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This stage removes the 'haze' left by the compounding and restores the deep, mirror-like gloss. Reduce speed to 3-4 and use very light pressure. This is where the 'show car' depth is truly created.

Once the entire car is polished, perform a final, meticulous wipe-down with a dedicated panel prep. This ensures the surface is chemically bare. Any leftover oils will prevent the ceramic coating from bonding, leading to premature failure in the harsh Australian sun.

Apply the ceramic coating to a suede applicator block. Apply in a cross-hatch pattern (vertical then horizontal) over a small area. In summer temperatures (30°C+), the 'flash time'—when the coating rainbows and begins to bead—may be as short as 30-60 seconds.

Using two separate towels, use the first to 'level' the coating (remove the bulk) and the second to buff to a high shine. Ensure there are no 'high spots' (dark, oily-looking patches), as these will harden like glass and require machine polishing to fix later.

Wait 1-2 hours (refer to product specs) before applying a second layer. This adds thickness and ensuring total coverage, providing superior resistance to the acidic nature of Australian bird and bat droppings.

Apply a dedicated heat-resistant rim coating. This prevents brake dust from burning into the wheel finish during high-temperature summer driving and makes cleaning after a coastal run significantly easier.

Polish the windscreen with a glass-specific compound to remove water spots. Apply a hydrophobic glass sealant. This is crucial for visibility during sudden summer thunderstorms and allows bugs to be wiped away with ease.

Apply a water-based, non-sling tyre dressing for a 'satin' show look. Avoid silicone-heavy 'shiny' dressings which attract red dust like a magnet and can brown the rubber over time (blooming).

Keep the vehicle in a dry, dust-free environment for at least 12-24 hours. Do not wash the vehicle with chemicals for 7 days while the ceramic lattice fully cross-links and hardens.