What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we all know the Aussie sun is absolutely brutal on car plastics and chrome. Whether it's the salt air from coastal living or that fine red dust that gets into every crevice, your trim takes a beating. This guide is for anyone who wants to ditch the 'greyed-out' look and get that factory fresh finish back. I'll walk you through the proper way to clean, polish, and protect these bits so you aren't doing it all over again in a month's time.
The Reality of Aussie Trim Wear
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
The Deep Clean
Give the whole car a proper wash first. Use your APC and a brush to get into the gaps around the trim. You'd be amazed how much red dust hides in window rubbers. If you don't get that out now, it'll ruin your applicator later.
Dry it Bone Dry
Water is the enemy here. Use a blower or some compressed air to get water out from behind the trim pieces. If a single drop of water hits your trim restorer while you're applying it, it'll streak and look terrible.
Tape it Up
I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore. I thought I had a steady hand, but I got metal polish on the plastic trim and it left white stains that took forever to remove. Just tape the edges. It takes five minutes and saves an hour of crying later.
The Restoration Process
Assess the Chrome
Run your nail over any spots. If it's just surface grime, a cloth will do. If it's pitted (common on older Aussie utes), you'll need the big guns.
The Steel Wool Trick
For real chrome (not plastic 'chrome'), use a bit of metal polish on 0000 steel wool. Use very light pressure. This is the only way to get rid of that 'cloudy' look. I've used this on hundreds of classic cars and it works wonders.
Buff the Metal
Once you've worked the polish in, buff it off immediately with a clean microfibre. Don't let it dry to a crust or it's a nightmare to remove.
Clean the Plastic Trim
Wipe down all plastic and rubber with Isopropyl Alcohol. This removes any old waxes or silicones. If the surface isn't 'squeaky' clean, the restorer won't bond.
Apply Solution Finish
Put a few drops of restorer on a foam applicator. Work it into the plastic in small circular motions. You don't need much, a little goes a long way.
Level it Out
After about 30 seconds, lightly wipe the trim with a clean microfibre. This ensures an even finish without high spots or 'blobs'.
Rubber Seals
For window rubbers, use a dedicated rubber protectant (I reckon Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care is decent here). It keeps them supple so they don't crack in the 40-degree heat.
Final Inspection
Pull the car out into the sun. Shadows in the garage can hide spots you've missed. Check for any streaks or unevenness and fix them now while you've still got the gear out.
Watch Out
Dealing with Bat Droppings
Keeping it Looking Good
Common Questions from the Workshop
Can I use WD-40 to shine up my plastics?
The red dust won't come out of my door seals, help!
My trim is turning white, is it too late?
How do I stop my chrome from pitting near the beach?
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