Bringing Dull Chrome and Faded Trim Back to Life

Most 'tyre shine' style products people chuck on trim are just silicone. They look great for two days, then the first bit of red dust hits them and it turns into a muddy mess. Worse, they actually cook the plastic in the heat. Use a dedicated trim restorer like Solution Finish or Bowden's Own Mr Black. These actually dye the plastic or bond to it rather than just sitting on top. (Trust me, your missus won't be happy when the cheap stuff runs down the paint after the first rain).

If you've got real metal chrome (not the plastic 'chrome-look' stuff) that's started to pit or rust, here's a trick I learned the hard way after trying expensive abrasives. Scrunched up aluminium foil and a bit of water. Honestly. The chemical reaction between the aluminium and the rust cleans it up better than almost anything else. I used this on an old FJ Holden bumper last month and the owner thought I'd had it re-chromed. Just go gentle and keep it wet.

You can't just slap restorer on dirty trim. You need to scrub it with an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) and a stiff brush first. You'd be surprised how much 'fading' is actually just old wax and road grime stuck in the texture of the plastic. Give it a good scrub, dry it properly, and then apply your protection. If you don't clean it first, the restorer will just peel off in a week.

If you're living near the beach or heading outback, your chrome needs a sealant. After polishing, I always hit the brightwork with a ceramic sealant like Gtechniq C5 or even just a good synthetic wax. This creates a barrier so the salt spray or red dust can't eat into the surface. It makes washing the car a heaps easier too because the muck just slides off.