Advanced Mechanical Decontamination and Clay Bar Techniques

Perform a two-bucket wash using a high-pH 'strip wash' shampoo if the car has old wax, or a pH-neutral shampoo for ceramic-coated cars. Ensure every trace of loose dirt, red dust, and grit is removed. Any remaining loose debris will be picked up by the clay and dragged across the paint, causing severe scratches.

Spray a dedicated iron remover on cool panels. In Australian summer, do this in the shade to prevent the product from drying. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes until the purple 'bleeding' effect occurs, then rinse thoroughly. This reduces the workload for the clay bar and minimizes the risk of marring.

Move the vehicle into a garage or under a high-quality carport. Panel temperature must be below 30°C. If the metal is too hot, the clay lubricant will evaporate instantly, and the clay bar may melt or stick to the paint, leaving stubborn residue that is difficult to remove.

Break your 100g clay bar into 3 or 4 smaller pieces. Knead a piece into a flat disc roughly 5cm in diameter. Keep the unused pieces in a sealed container with a splash of lubricant to keep them soft. If you drop the piece you are using, discard it immediately—never risk your paint with a contaminated bar.

Place your hand inside a clean plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingers over the wet paintwork. The bag amplifies the sensation of bumps. If the paint feels like fine sandpaper, it requires claying. If it feels smooth, skip that section to preserve clear coat thickness.

Generously spray a 40cm x 40cm section of a panel with clay lubricant. Ensure the surface is dripping wet. Lubrication is the most critical factor in preventing 'clay marring' (fine scratches caused by the clay itself).

Place the clay disc on the lubricated surface. Use only the weight of your fingers—do not press down. Move the clay in short, 15cm linear strokes (up and down or side to side). Never use circular motions, as these create swirls that are harder to polish out.

Listen closely. You will hear a 'scritch-scritch' sound as the clay encounters bonded contaminants. As the section becomes clean, the sound will disappear, and the clay will glide silently and effortlessly. This is your cue that the section is complete.

After every 40cm section, look at the face of the clay. In Australia, you will often see brown staining (dust), black specks (industrial fallout), or yellow/white streaks (sap). This visual feedback confirms the removal of pollutants.

Once the clay face looks dirty, fold it in half and knead it to reveal a fresh, clean surface. This 'traps' the contaminants inside the clay and away from your paint. If the clay becomes stiff due to cold, dip it in a bucket of warm (not boiling) water for 30 seconds.

Wipe the section dry with a clean microfibre towel. Perform the 'bag test' again on that specific area. It should now feel as smooth as glass. If any roughness remains, repeat the process with additional lubricant.

Always start with the roof, then the bonnet and boot lid, followed by the upper doors. Save the lower sills and rear bumper for last, as these areas hold the heaviest grit and will soil your clay the fastest.

Clay is safe and highly effective on exterior glass and chrome trim. Claying the windscreen removes bonded road film and improves wiper blade performance during heavy summer storms.

Once the entire vehicle is completed, perform a final rinse to remove any dried lubricant residue. Dry the vehicle using a dedicated drying towel or filtered forced air to ensure no water spots form in the heat.