Advanced Chemical and Mechanical Paint Decontamination

Never perform decontamination in direct sunlight, especially in Australian summer. Ensure the vehicle panels are cool to the touch. If the surface is over 30°C, chemicals will flash (evaporate) too quickly, potentially staining the paint. Work in a garage or under a high-quality carport.

Thoroughly rinse the vehicle from top to bottom. Focus on wheel arches and panel gaps where red dust and salt accumulate. This removes loose grit that could cause heavy scratching during the subsequent contact steps.

Prepare your wash buckets using the two-bucket method. Dilute your alkaline snow foam according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually 1:10 in a foam cannon). Ensure all trigger sprays are primed and your clay bar is softened in a cup of warm water.

Clean the wheels first. Since they host the highest concentration of iron fallout, you don't want to splash these contaminants onto a clean car body later. Use your iron remover and dedicated wheel brushes.

Apply a thick layer of alkaline snow foam to the dry vehicle. Let it dwell for 4-6 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. This breaks down old waxes, sealants, and stubborn organic matter like dried bug guts common in rural driving. Rinse thoroughly.

Perform a meticulous contact wash using a dedicated car shampoo. Use one bucket for soapy water and one with clean water to rinse your mitt. This ensures the surface is physically clean before the chemical decontamination begins.

Spray the pH-neutral iron remover liberally across all painted surfaces and glass. Within 2-3 minutes, you will see 'bleeding'—a purple chemical reaction indicating the dissolution of iron particles. In humid coastal areas, this step is vital to prevent rust 'blooming' under the paint.

For heavily contaminated vehicles, gently agitate the iron remover with a damp microfibre mitt. This helps the chemical reach the base of embedded particles. Do not let the product dry on the surface. If it begins to dry, mist with a little water to reactivate.

Rinse the vehicle extremely thoroughly. Iron removers are acidic/salt-based and can linger in crevices, leading to corrosion of trim clips if not flushed out with high-volume water.

Dry the lower sills and rear bumper. Apply tar remover to these areas to dissolve bitumen and road oils. Let dwell for 1-2 minutes. Wipe away with a sacrificial microfibre cloth. This step is crucial before claying, as tar will instantly clog a clay bar.

Apply a generous amount of clay lubricant to a 60cm x 60cm section. Gently glide the clay bar or mitt over the surface using light finger pressure. Initially, you will feel resistance and hear a 'hissing' sound—this is the clay shearing off bonded contaminants.

Continue the back-and-forth motion until the clay glides silently and smoothly. Check the clay frequently. If using a traditional bar, fold it to a clean side once it looks soiled. If using a mitt, rinse it in a water bucket frequently.

Don't forget the glass. Claying the windscreen removes bonded mineral deposits and 'traffic film,' significantly improving wiper performance and visibility during heavy tropical downpours.

Perform one final rinse to remove all lubricant residue. Dry the vehicle using a high-quality drying towel or a dedicated car dryer/leaf blower to remove water from mirrors and emblems.

Place your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and run it over the paint. The plastic amplifies any remaining imperfections. If it feels like silk, you are finished. If it feels like fine sandpaper, repeat the claying process on that section.