10 min read 6 sections
Interior Cleaning advanced

Ultimate Show Car Interior Restoration and Preparation

A master-level technical guide to achieving a concours-standard interior finish, specifically engineered to combat the effects of extreme UV, red dust, and high temperatures.

Updated: 20 January 2026
AI Summary

This guide provides a comprehensive, professional-grade framework for restoring and preparing a vehicle's interior to show-winning standards.

01

The Science of Interior Show Preparation

In the Australian climate, particularly during the peak of January, vehicle interiors are subjected to some of the most punishing conditions on the planet. Cabin temperatures can easily exceed 70°C when parked in the sun, causing plasticisers to off-gas (creating that oily film on windshields) and leather fibres to shrink and crack. Show car preparation is not merely about 'cleaning'; it is about a deep-pore decontamination and the restoration of material suppleness. Neglecting this leads to permanent UV bleaching of carpets and the irreversible hardening of leather hides. For a true show-standard finish, every surface must be anatomically clean—free of the microscopic red dust that permeates seals and the biological oils left by skin contact. By following this professional technical manual, you will transition your interior from 'clean' to 'concours.' We focus on matte, non-greasy finishes that replicate the vehicle's original delivery state, ensuring that judges or enthusiasts see the material's true texture rather than a cheap, silicone-based shine. This level of detail requires patience and an understanding of chemical interactions with various substrates, from Alcantara to open-pore timber veneers.

02

Required Equipment and Materials

Equipment Checklist

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pH-Neutral Interior Cleaner — 500ml of a high-quality concentrate like P&S Interior Express or Bowden’s Own Agent Orange. Must be safe for all surfaces.
Horsehair and Synthetic Detailing Brushes — A set of varying stiffness. Use horsehair for leather and soft-touch plastics; synthetic for textured dash plastics and door cards.
Steam Cleaner — A canister-style steamer (e.g., Dupray or Karcher) capable of 3.5+ bar pressure. Essential for sanitising and lifting deep oils without excessive water.
Hot Water Extractor — Essential for fabric seats and carpets. Use with a low-foaming carpet shampoo (ratio 1:20).
Leather Conditioner & Shield — Professional grade like Colourlock or Gyeon LeatherShield. Avoid oily conditioners; look for 'matte' finish protectors.
Microfibre Towels (GSM 300-350) — At least 15-20 fresh towels. Use low-pile for scrubbing and high-pile for final buffing of delicate trims.
Compressed Air or Air Blow Gun — Essential for removing red dust from crevices, vents, and seat rails where vacuum nozzles cannot reach.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Solution — Diluted to 15-20% for final degreasing of glass and non-porous hard plastics.
HEPA Vacuum with Attachments — High-suction unit with a crevice tool and a soft brush attachment to prevent scratching gloss black plastics.
03

Preparation and Environmental Setup

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01

Thermal Management and Work Zone

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a fully shaded, well-ventilated area. In Australian summer, interior plastics can become brittle or overly soft when hot. Work only when the surface temperature is below 30°C. Open all doors and the boot to allow air circulation and the dissipation of any cleaning fumes.

02

De-clutter and Component Removal

Remove all floor mats, child seats, and personal items. If the vehicle is for a high-level show, consider removing the front seats (disconnect battery first to avoid SRS/Airbag lights) to access the 'dead zone' between the centre console and the seat rails where dust and debris accumulate.

03

Dry Soil Extraction (The Foundation)

Perform an initial high-intensity vacuum. Use a stiff-bristled nylon brush to agitate carpet fibres, bringing trapped sand and red dust to the surface. Use compressed air to blow out the 'tunnels' under the seats and inside the air vents. This step must be 100% thorough before any liquid touches the interior.

04

Chemical Dilution and Tool Organising

Mix your APC (All Purpose Cleaner) or dedicated interior cleaners according to the soil level. For show prep, a 1:10 ratio for general surfaces and 1:20 for delicate headliners is standard. Pre-hydrate your brushes in clean water to soften the bristles before use.

04

The Concours Interior Procedure

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01

Ceiling-Down Approach (Headliner)

Start with the headliner. Spray a fine mist of mild cleaner onto a microfibre towel—never directly onto the headliner to avoid adhesive failure (sagging). Gently blot stains. Use a dry towel to 'chase' the moisture. This prevents gravity-fed drips from contaminating cleaned lower surfaces later.

02

Deep Vent and Crevice Cleaning

Use a detailing brush and compressed air simultaneously. Spray cleaner onto the brush, agitate the vent slats, and blow the excess liquid out with air while holding a towel to catch the spray. This ensures no dust is left in the corners of the HVAC system.

03

Dashboard and Instrument Cluster

Clean the dash using a soft horsehair brush and a pH-neutral cleaner. For the instrument cluster (clear plastic), use only a brand-new, high-GSM microfibre and very light pressure to avoid 'swirl marks' on the soft acrylic. Avoid any cleaners containing ammonia or alcohol here.

04

Door Card Decontamination

Door cards often house oils from elbows and red dust in the speaker grilles. Use a steamer with a microfibre wrap to liquefy oils, followed by a brush for textured plastics. Ensure you clean the door jambs and the often-missed bottom edge of the door panel.

05

Leather Deep Cleansing

Apply leather foam cleaner to a brush. Work in a circular motion to create a lather, which pulls dirt out of the 'valleys' of the leather grain. Wipe immediately with a damp towel, then a dry one. The leather should look matte; if it's shiny, there is still body oil present.

06

Steering Wheel and Touchpoints

The steering wheel is the filthiest part of the car. Use a leather cleaner and a soft brush. For heavy buildup, a steam cleaner held 10cm away can help loosen the 'human 'gunk.' Repeat until the microfibre towel comes away clean. This is vital for show judging 'feel'.

07

Centrifugal Carpet Extraction

Apply a low-moisture carpet shampoo. Agitate with a drill brush (soft yellow bristles). Use the hot water extractor to pull the chemical and dirt out. Perform 'dry passes' (suction only) until no more moisture is visible through the extractor nozzle to prevent mould in the heat.

08

Pedal and Footwell Detail

Show cars must have spotless pedals. Use an APC and a stiff brush on rubber pedals. For metal/Aluminium pedals, use a fine metal polish and a toothbrush to clean the rubber grip 'nubs.' Ensure they are completely dry and non-slippery for safety.

09

Glass Clarity Protocol

Use a two-towel system for glass. One towel with glass cleaner to remove the film, and a second dry 'waffle-weave' towel to buff to a streak-free finish. In high heat, work on small sections to prevent the cleaner from drying too fast and leaving spots.

10

UV Protection Application

Apply a dedicated UV protectant (like Aerospace 303) to all vinyl and plastic. Spread evenly with an applicator and buff off after 2 minutes. This creates a sacrificial barrier against the 40°C+ Australian sun without adding artificial shine.

11

Leather Nourishment/Sealing

Once the leather is dry (approx. 30 mins after cleaning), apply a modern leather sealer. Unlike old-fashioned conditioners, sealers prevent dye transfer from jeans and protect against UV-induced drying. Buff to a factory-matte finish.

12

Final Inspection and Scent Neutralisation

Use a high-powered LED torch to inspect under seats and in cubby holes. If any 'old car' smell remains, use an ozone generator for 20 minutes (ensure the car is aired out for 1 hour before entering) to kill bacteria and mould spores.

Avoid Silicone-Based Dressings

Never use 'high-shine' or silicone-based protectants on the dashboard. In the Australian summer, these products can reach extreme temperatures, causing them to vaporise and coat the inside of your windscreen in a greasy film. Furthermore, the oily residue attracts red dust, making future cleaning significantly harder and potentially causing cracks in the dash by trapping heat.

Airbag Safety and Chemical Use

When cleaning steering wheel covers and passenger-side dash panels, do not allow liquid cleaners to seep into the airbag seams. Excessive moisture or harsh solvents can potentially interfere with the deployment mechanism or damage the sensitive electronics. Always spray your cleaner onto a cloth first, then wipe.

Headliner Adhesive Vulnerability

Be extremely cautious with the headliner. Australian heat often weakens the glue holding the fabric to the foam backing. Excessive scrubbing or the use of a steam cleaner directly on the headliner will cause it to sag instantly. This is a costly repair that often requires full replacement of the headliner board.

The 'Dry Brush' Dusting Technique

Before applying any liquids, use a soft makeup brush or a dedicated detailing brush while holding a vacuum nozzle 2cm away. This 'captures' the dust as you agitate it, preventing it from turning into 'mud' when it meets your cleaning spray. This is particularly effective for the fine red dust found in regional areas.

Removing Pet Hair and Stubborn Fibres

In Australian households with pets, hair can become 'woven' into the carpet. Use a rubberised pet hair brush or a pumice stone (Lily Brush) to pull the hair into clumps. For show prep, use a lint roller as a final pass on the seats and carpets to ensure zero stray fibres remain.

Professional Glass Secret

For a true show-winning streak-free finish, use distilled water for your final glass wipe. Australian tap water is often 'hard' and contains minerals that leave spots. A final wipe with a microfibre dampened with distilled water ensures absolute optical clarity.

05

Maintenance and Long-Term Preservation

Maintaining a show-level interior in Australia requires a proactive approach. During the summer months, it is highly recommended to use a high-quality reflective sunshade whenever the vehicle is parked outdoors; this reduces the surface temperature of the dash by up to 30°C. For daily drivers, a quick 'maintenance wipe' should be performed every two weeks using a damp microfibre towel to remove surface dust before it settles into the grain. Leather surfaces should be re-sealed every 3-4 months to maintain UV protection. If you notice the leather becoming 'noisy' (creaking when you sit) or if water no longer beads on the surface of the fabric protection, it is time for a deep clean and re-application of protectants. Always keep a small bottle of interior detailer and a fresh microfibre in the glovebox for immediate removal of bird droppings or spills, preventing them from etching into the materials under the intense heat.

06

Troubleshooting and Common Issues

What if the red dust won't come out of the seat stitching?
Red dust is iron-rich and very fine. Use a soft toothbrush and a slightly stronger APC dilution (1:5). Agitate the stitching gently and use a wet-dry vacuum to suck the slurry out immediately. If it persists, use a steam cleaner to open the fibres of the thread, followed by compressed air.
The leather still feels stiff after cleaning. What now?
Stiff leather is usually dehydrated. You may need a dedicated 'leather softener' or oil-based conditioner (like Connolly Hide Food), but use this sparingly. Apply, let it dwell in a warm (not hot) car for an hour to allow the pores to open, then buff off the excess until the surface is matte.
How do I remove the 'oily film' from the inside of the windscreen?
This is off-gassing from plastics. Use a dedicated degreaser or a 20% IPA solution first to break down the oils. Follow this with a standard glass cleaner. It usually takes 2-3 passes to completely remove this film for a show-quality finish.
I accidentally made the dash too shiny. How do I fix it?
Use a mild APC (1:20) and a clean microfibre towel to wipe the surface down. This will strip the excess silicone or oils. Follow up with a damp cloth (water only) to neutralise the surface, leaving the original matte plastic finish.
What if I find mould under the seats?
Mould thrives in humid coastal Australian conditions. Use a 1:10 solution of Isopropyl Alcohol and water to kill the spores. Steam clean the area to ensure the heat kills any remaining fungi deep in the carpet padding, then ensure the car is dried thoroughly with a dehumidifier or fans.

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