The Ultimate Guide to Polishing Pads and Paint Correction

Before a pad touches the paint, the surface must be surgically clean. Perform a 'strip wash' to remove old waxes, followed by an iron fallout remover to dissolve metallic particles from brakes. Finally, use a clay bar or clay mitt with plenty of lubricant. If you skip this, the polishing pad will pick up embedded grit and red dust, essentially turning your polisher into sandpaper and scouring the paint.

Use a high-lumen LED detailing light to identify the severity of swirls and water spots. In Australian summer, use an infrared thermometer to ensure the panel temperature is below 30°C. If the metal is hot to the touch, the polish will dry out instantly, causing 'dusting' and potentially scouring the clear coat. Work in a shaded, enclosed garage if possible.

Use 18mm automotive masking tape to cover all unpainted plastic trims, rubber window seals, and badges. Polishing pads can easily 'burn' or discolour textured plastics, and high-speed contact with rubber can cause permanent friction damage. Masking also prevents polish residue from getting trapped in crevices, which is a nightmare to remove once dried.

For a fresh foam pad, apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of polish. Spread them across the face of the pad with your finger or the nozzle to ensure every cell is lightly coated. This 'priming' ensures that there are no dry spots on the pad, which reduces heat and ensures even cutting from the very first pass.

Always perform a 'test spot' on the least aggressive combination first (e.g., a polishing pad with a fine compound). In the Australian sun, clear coats can vary in hardness. Start on a 50cm x 50cm area on the bonnet or boot lid. If this doesn't remove the defects, move up to a more aggressive pad. Never use more force or grit than is absolutely necessary to preserve clear coat thickness.

After priming, apply 3-4 pea-sized drops of your chosen compound onto the pad. Do not over-apply; too much product acts as a lubricant that prevents the pad from cutting and causes 'hydroplaning', where the pad slides over the defects rather than leveling them.

With the machine turned off, dab the pad across your 50cm x 50cm work area. Then, on the lowest speed setting (Speed 1), spread the product evenly across that section. This prevents 'sling' (polish splattering everywhere) and ensures the entire work area is covered before the high-speed work begins.

Increase the machine speed (typically Speed 4 or 5 on a DA). Move the polisher in a slow, steady 'cross-hatch' pattern: first horizontally with 50% overlaps, then vertically. Move the machine at a rate of roughly 2-3cm per second. Let the weight of the machine do the work; excessive downward pressure generates dangerous heat.

Watch the polish as you work. It will start as an opaque film and gradually turn into a translucent, oily smear. This is the 'work cycle' completing. If it starts to produce white dust (dusting), the abrasives have broken down or the pad is too dry. Stop immediately to avoid dry buffing.

Use a clean microfibre towel and a panel prep spray to remove the residue. Inspect the surface with your LED light. Look for 'pig tails' (tiny curls caused by trapped grit) or remaining swirls. If the defects are gone, move to the next section. If not, repeat the process or increase pad aggressiveness.

After every single section, you must clean the pad. Use a pad brush or compressed air while the machine is spinning at low speed to blow out spent polish and 'dead' clear coat. A loaded pad loses its ability to cut and generates significantly more heat, which is the primary cause of pad failure (delamination).

During an Australian summer, pads will heat up rapidly. If the backing plate feels hot to the touch, swap to a fresh, cool pad. Professionals often rotate through 5-6 pads of the same type for a single car, allowing used pads to cool down. This prevents the hook-and-loop velcro from melting.

Once the heavy defects are removed with a cutting pad, switch to a finishing foam pad and a fine polish. Use the same cross-hatch technique but with slightly faster arm movement and lower machine speed. This step removes 'haze' left by the heavy cutting stage and brings out the maximum gloss.

After the entire vehicle is polished, perform a final wipe down with a high-quality panel prep. This ensures all polishing oils are removed, revealing the true state of the paint. It also prepares the surface for the bond of a ceramic coating or sealant, which is vital for surviving the UV and salt of the Australian coastline.