The Ultimate Guide to Paint Correction and Cutting Compounds

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash followed by iron fallout removal. In coastal or outback areas, ensure all salt and red dust are chemically and mechanically removed. Use a clay bar over the entire surface until the paint feels as smooth as glass. Any remaining grit will be caught in your polishing pad and act like sandpaper, scouring the paint.

Dry the vehicle completely using a microfibre drying towel or forced air. Use compressed air to blow water out of window seals, mirror housings, and badges. Water droplets leaking onto your pad during the compounding process will cause the product to splatter (sling) and alter the abrasive's lubrication.

Apply automotive masking tape to all non-painted surfaces. This includes black plastic trim, rubber window seals, door handles, and emblems. Cutting compounds contain heavy abrasives and solvents that can permanently whiten or 'burn' textured plastics and rubbers, which are already vulnerable due to UV degradation.

Position the vehicle in a garage or under a high-quality shade sail. Never compound a surface that is hot to the touch. In Australian summer, work early in the morning. Set up your inspection lights at an angle (45 degrees) to the panels to highlight 'swirls' and 'RIDS' (Random Isolated Deep Scratches).

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Spread it evenly across the pad face with your finger to ensure every foam cell is 'primed'. This prevents 'dry buffing' and ensures consistent abrasive coverage from the first rotation. For subsequent sets, only 2-3 drops are needed.

Work in a manageable area, typically no larger than 50cm x 50cm. Working in larger sections leads to uneven results and allows the compound to dry out before the abrasives have fully broken down, especially in low-humidity Australian environments.

Place the pad on the panel and spread the compound across your 50cm section using the lowest speed setting (Speed 1) on your DA polisher. Do not turn the machine on until it is in contact with the paint to avoid slinging product.

Increase the machine speed to 4 or 5. Apply moderate downward pressure (approx. 2-4kg). Move the polisher slowly—about 2-3cm per second. Use a cross-hatch pattern: move horizontally across the section, then vertically, overlapping each pass by 50% to ensure total coverage.

Watch the compound as you work. It will initially look like a milky film. As the abrasives break down, it will turn into a translucent, oily film. This is known as the 'flash point'. Once it flashes, stop polishing. Continuing to polish dry residue will cause 'buffing haze' or micro-marring.

Use a clean, high-GSM microfibre cloth to gently wipe away the remaining compound residue. Use a 'flip and wipe' technique to ensure you aren't just moving oils around. Do not use heavy pressure, as the surface is now highly susceptible to fresh scratches.

Spray the section with a 70% IPA solution or panel prep. This is vital to remove the heavy polishing oils found in compounds which can 'fill' or hide scratches. Wipe dry and inspect the surface with your LED light. If deep defects remain, a second set may be required.

After every section, clean your pad using a pad brush or compressed air. In Australia's heat, compound dries quickly into the foam. Spent paint residue and dried compound will clump together, reducing cutting efficiency and increasing the risk of 'pig tail' scratches.

Periodically touch the panel. It should feel warm, but never hot. If the panel exceeds 50°C, stop and move to a different area of the car. Excessive heat can soften the clear coat to the point of 'strike-through' or cause the paint to expand and contract unnaturally.

Avoid polishing directly on sharp body lines or edges where the paint is naturally thinner. Keep the pad about 1cm away from edges, or reduce the machine speed and pressure significantly when working near them.