The Ultimate Guide to Mechanical Decontamination: Clay Bar vs Clay Mitt

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-foaming strip soap to remove all surface dirt. While the car is still wet, apply an iron fallout remover to the paintwork. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry) until the chemical turns purple, indicating the dissolution of iron particles. Rinse thoroughly. This reduces the workload on your clay media and prevents scratching.

In Australian summer conditions, the vehicle surface temperature must be below 30°C. If the metal is hot to the touch, the lubricant will flash (evaporate) instantly, causing the clay to stick and mar the paint. Work indoors or under a high-quality gazebo. If working outdoors, only perform this task at sunrise or dusk.

If using a traditional clay bar, cut the 100g block into 4 smaller pieces. Knead one piece into a flat pancake shape. Submerge the clay pieces in a bucket of warm water (approx. 40°C) to make them more pliable. If using a clay mitt, inspect the polymer surface for any manufacturing residues and 'break it in' by using it on the glass first with plenty of lubricant.

Prepare your lubricant in a high-volume trigger sprayer. For Australian conditions, a slightly 'wetter' mix is preferred to combat evaporation. If using a concentrate, ensure the ratio provides maximum slickness. Test the slickness by rubbing two fingers together with the lubricant; there should be zero resistance.

Divide the vehicle into small working sections, roughly 40cm x 40cm. Start from the top (roof) and work your way down. This prevents contaminants from lower, dirtier panels (like side skirts) from being transferred to cleaner upper panels.

Spray the working section and the face of the clay media (bar or mitt) generously. In humidity or high heat, you may need to spray every 15-20 seconds to maintain a hydro-plane layer between the clay and the paint. Never use clay on a dry surface.

Place the clay bar or mitt on the surface. Using only the weight of your hand—zero downward pressure—glide the media in straight, overlapping horizontal lines. Avoid circular motions, as these can create complex swirl patterns if a large particle is trapped.

Listen closely. You will initially hear a 'hissing' or 'scratching' sound as the clay hits contaminants. As the particles are pulled into the clay, the sound will disappear, and the resistance will drop. Once the media glides silently and smoothly, the section is clear.

After every section, inspect the face of the clay bar. If you see brown or grey staining (dirt/dust), fold the clay in half and knead it until a fresh, clean surface is exposed. This is the primary advantage of the bar over the mitt—it traps grit inside the clay body.

If using a clay mitt, you cannot 'fold' it. Instead, rinse the polymer face in a bucket of clean water or under a hose after every section to dislodge surface particles. This makes the mitt significantly faster for large SUVs or 4x4s with heavy red dust buildup.

Wipe the section dry with a clean microfiber towel. Run your hand (inside a thin plastic sandwich bag for extra sensitivity) over the paint. It should feel as smooth as glass. If any 'nibs' remain, repeat the process on that specific spot.

Use the traditional clay bar for areas the mitt cannot reach, such as around door handles, badges, and the recesses of the front grille. The malleability of the bar allows you to mould it into a point to extract dirt from tight crevices.

The areas behind the wheel arches and the rear bumper typically harbor the most tar and road salt. Spend extra time here, but ensure you switch to a dedicated 'dirty' piece of clay or a separate mitt to avoid cross-contaminating the rest of the car.

Clay is highly effective at removing stubborn water spots and wiper film from glass. Use the same technique on the windscreen and side windows. This will significantly improve wiper performance and clarity during summer storms.

Once the entire car is complete, perform a final rinse to remove any dried lubricant residue. Dry the car thoroughly, then perform a final wipe-down with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol solution to ensure the surface is chemically clean and ready for protection.