The Professional Guide to Door Jamb Detailing and Protection

Ensure the vehicle's metal surfaces are cool to the touch. In an Australian summer, panels can reach 70°C, which causes chemicals to flash (dry) instantly, leading to permanent chemical etching. Work in a shaded, well-ventilated area or early in the morning before the UV index peaks.

Before introducing liquids, use a vacuum with a crevice tool or a soft brush to remove loose leaves, insects, and dry red dust from the bottom sills and drainage holes. Wetting red dust immediately turns it into a staining mud that is harder to remove from tight crevices.

Prepare your APC in a dedicated spray bottle. For standard road grime, a 10% (1:10) concentration is sufficient. For heavy grease around hinges, have a 20% (1:5) mix ready. Fill a 'rinse bucket' with clean water to periodically clean your detailing brushes.

Identify sensitive electronics such as exposed wiring looms (common in older 4x4s) or aftermarket speaker components. If necessary, lightly cover these with plastic film or painter's tape to prevent direct high-pressure water ingress.

Using a low-pressure setting or a spray bottle of water, dampen the jambs. Apply your APC (1:10) to the entire jamb, starting from the top and working down. Allow it to dwell for 2-3 minutes, but do not let it dry. This softens the bond of traffic film and salt deposits.

Use a soft-bristled detailing brush to agitate the APC on the painted sections of the jamb. Use circular motions to lift dirt. Focus on the areas around the 'B' pillar and the underside of the door where road spray accumulates. Rinse the brush frequently in your clean water bucket.

Apply the stronger APC (1:5) or a dedicated engine degreaser to the hinges, check-straps, and latches. Use a stiff-bristled brush to work the cleaner into the mechanical joints. This is where old, gritty grease hides. If using steam, apply it now to liquefy the grease for easy removal.

Rinse the jambs using a pressure washer. Hold the nozzle at least 30-50cm away and angle the spray *outwards* from the interior. Use short bursts. The goal is to flush the grime out of the jamb without flooding the vehicle's cabin or blowing water past the interior door cards.

Locate the drainage holes at the bottom of the door shell. Use a small pipe cleaner or a zip-tie to ensure they are not blocked by mud or wax. Clear drainage is vital in coastal areas to prevent salt water from sitting inside the door cavity and causing internal rust.

If you see small orange 'rust' dots (common on white cars in industrial or coastal areas), apply an iron fallout remover. It will react with metallic particles and turn purple. Let it sit for 2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. This stops the onset of surface corrosion.

Use a dedicated air blower or compressed air to blow water out of the hinges, window seals, and mirror housings. Follow up with a clean microfibre towel to dry the painted surfaces. Leaving water to air-dry in high heat will result in difficult-to-remove calcium water spots.

Apply a spray sealant or ceramic detailer to a microfibre applicator pad, then wipe onto all painted surfaces within the jamb. This creates a high-gloss, hydrophobic layer that prevents red dust from 'staining' the clear coat and makes the next wash significantly easier.

Apply a water-based UV protectant to the rubber door seals. This prevents the rubber from drying out and 'sticking' to the jamb in 40°C+ heat. Avoid silicone-based 'tyre shines' here, as they can attract dust and cause the seals to squeak over time.

Now that the hinges are clean and dry, apply a small amount of white lithium grease or PTFE spray to the pivot points. Open and close the door several times to distribute the lubricant. Wipe away any excess to prevent it from attracting new dust.

Using a high-powered LED torch, check the crevices for any remaining white residue from the APC or missed dust. Wipe down the interior plastics that may have received overspray during the rinsing process to ensure a factory-perfect finish.