The Master Guide to Detailing Black Paintwork

Never touch black paint that is hot to the touch. In summer, you must work under a carport, in a garage, or during the 'golden hours' (before 8 AM or after 6 PM). Use an infrared thermometer if available; surface temps should be below 30°C to prevent product flash-off and water spotting.

Always clean wheels first. This prevents brake dust and heavy grime from splashing onto the clean paint later. Use a dedicated wheel bucket and non-acidic cleaner. Rinse the wheel arches thoroughly to remove salt and red mud buildup that often hides in the lip of the guard.

Mix your wash solution according to the manufacturer's ratio—typically 50ml of shampoo to 10L of water. If using a foam cannon, use a 1:10 ratio. Ensure your rinse bucket is filled with clean, filtered water. For coastal areas, adding a water softener or using deionised water can significantly reduce spotting.

Using a high-lumen LED torch, inspect the panels for 'hot spots' of contamination, such as dried bird lime or heavy bug splatter on the front bar. Pre-treat these specific areas with a dedicated bug and tar remover for 3-5 minutes before the main wash to soften the proteins.

Apply a thick layer of snow foam to the dry vehicle. This allows the surfactants to dwell and encapsulate abrasive red dust and grit without mechanical agitation. Let it dwell for 5-7 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. This step is critical for black cars to minimise the risk of 'dry-scrubbing' contaminants.

Rinse the foam from the bottom up, then top down, using a pressure washer (approx. 1500-2000 PSI). Focus on window seals, door handles, and badges where salt and dust accumulate. Bottom-up rinsing ensures the foam lingers longer on the dirtiest lower sections.

Dip your mitt into the soapy bucket, wash one panel at a time using straight-line motions (never circular), then rinse the mitt in the clean water bucket before reloading with soap. Start from the roof and work down. For black cars, use virtually zero pressure; let the microfibre do the work.

While the car is wet, spray an iron fallout remover over the entire vehicle. On black paint, you won't see the 'bleeding' purple effect as easily, so rely on dwell time (3-5 minutes). This dissolves embedded metallic particles that cause the paint to feel rough and look dull.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, gently glide the clay over the paint. This removes bonded sap and stubborn outback dust. If the clay 'grabs', add more lubricant. Regularly fold the clay to a clean face. This ensures the surface is 'squeaky clean' for the sealant.

Perform a final rinse. Remove the nozzle from the hose and let a low-pressure stream of water 'sheet' over the panels. This uses surface tension to pull 80% of the water off the car, reducing the amount of physical touching required during the drying phase.

Use a dedicated car dryer or leaf blower to blow water out of crevices, mirror housings, and lug nuts. This prevents 'run-down' streaks which are notoriously visible on black paint. Follow up with a plush drying towel using a 'pat-dry' method rather than wiping.

Spray a 15% IPA solution onto a microfibre cloth and wipe down the panels. This removes any remaining polishing oils or shampoo film. A surgically clean surface is the only way to ensure a ceramic sealant achieves its maximum 6-12 month lifespan in the Australian sun.

Apply 2-3 sprays of ceramic sealant per panel. Work in small sections (50x50cm). Spread with one microfibre towel and immediately buff off with a second, clean, high-GSM towel. Black paint will 'flash' quickly in heat; if you see rainbow streaking, you are using too much product or waiting too long.

Allow the sealant to cure in a dry, shaded environment for at least 4 hours (ideally 12). Avoid any water contact during this time. Inspect the finish using a high-intensity light to ensure no high spots (darker, oily-looking patches) remain. These must be buffed out before the sealant hardens.