The Complete Beginner's Guide to Paint Scratch Removal

Before starting, clean the scratched area with a damp cloth. Gently run your fingernail across the scratch. If your nail 'clicks' or catches in the groove, the scratch has likely penetrated the clear coat and reached the base colour or primer. These deep scratches cannot be fully polished out by hand and may require a touch-up pen. If your nail slides over it without catching, it is a surface scratch that this guide can successfully remove.

Wash the entire vehicle using the two-bucket method to ensure no dust or grit remains. After drying, use the clay bar with plenty of lubricant over the scratched area. This removes embedded metallic particles and 'rail dust' that are common in industrial areas. If you skip this, you will pick up these hard particles in your polishing pad and grind them into your paint, creating more damage.

Never work in direct sunlight, especially when temperatures exceed 30°C. The paint surface can reach 70°C+, causing chemicals to flash-dry and bake onto the panel. Find a shaded garage or carport with good lighting. If working outdoors, early morning is best before the sun gains intensity. Ensure the panel is cool to the touch before proceeding.

Use blue painter's tape to cover any adjacent plastic trim, rubber seals, or chrome badges. Scratch removing compounds are abrasive and contain oils that can permanently stain or whiten porous black plastics. Taking five minutes to mask the area saves hours of cleaning later.

Apply 3-4 pea-sized drops of the scratch removal compound onto a clean microfibre applicator pad. Dab the pad against the scratched area in several spots to distribute the product. This prevents 'dry buffing' which can cause friction burns on the clear coat.

With the applicator pad flat against the panel, spread the compound over a small work area, roughly 30cm x 30cm. Do not try to do the whole door at once; working in small sections allows you to maintain consistent pressure and heat.

Using the 'palm' of your hand rather than just fingertips (to avoid uneven pressure points), rub the compound into the scratch using firm, back-and-forth horizontal motions. Follow this with vertical motions. This 'cross-hatch' pattern ensures the abrasives level the paint from all angles.

Work the product for about 60-90 seconds. You will notice the thick white cream begin to turn into a thin, translucent film. This is the 'working time.' Once it looks oily or clear, the abrasives have broken down and finished their job.

Immediately wipe away the residue using a clean, dry microfibre towel. Use a bright LED torch or your phone light to inspect the scratch. If the scratch is reduced but still visible, repeat steps 1-4. Do not exceed 3-4 passes in one session to avoid thinning the clear coat too much.

The heavy compound may leave the paint looking slightly hazy. Switch to a new, clean applicator pad and apply a fine finishing polish. Use lighter pressure and circular motions this time. This step removes the 'micro-marring' left by the compound and restores the deep, mirror-like gloss.

Spray a small amount of 15% Isopropyl Alcohol onto a towel and gently wipe the area. This removes the polishing oils that can 'fill' a scratch and trick you into thinking it's gone. If the scratch remains after the IPA wipe, it needs more work. If it stays invisible, you have successfully levelled the paint.

Now that the paint is bare and corrected, it is vulnerable to the sun. Apply a high-quality wax or ceramic sealant. Apply in thin, even layers, let it haze for the manufacturer's recommended time (usually 2-5 minutes), and buff to a high shine. This provides a sacrificial layer against UV rays and bird droppings.