What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you live in Australia, your dashboard is basically sitting in a slow-cooker for ten months of the year. Between the 40-degree days and that fine red dust that gets into every crack, our car interiors take a proper beating. I've written this for anyone who wants to stop their dash from cracking or fading, whether you've just come back from a dusty trip out west or you're dealing with salt air on the coast. It's not just about making it look shiny; it's about making sure your interior actually lasts.
The Reality of Aussie Interiors
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Stage
Park in the shade
Never, ever clean your dash while it's hot or sitting in direct sun. The products will dry instantly and leave nasty streaks that are a nightmare to get off. Get it under a carport or in the garage.
Clear the deck
Chuck everything off the dash, the sunglasses, the old receipts, and the GPS. Open all your doors to get some airflow so you aren't breathing in fumes.
The First Pass
Give the whole dash a quick vacuum using the soft brush head. This gets the loose grit off so you don't rub it into the grain and scratch the surface when you start wiping.
The Proper Way to Clean and Protect
Dry Brush the Vents
Before you spray anything, use a dry detailing brush to flick dust out of the air vents while holding the vacuum nozzle nearby. If you spray first, you just turn that dust into mud.
Spray the Cloth, Not the Dash
Always spray your cleaner onto the microfibre towel, not directly onto the dashboard. You don't want overspray getting inside your electronics or behind the instrument cluster glass.
The Deep Scrub
Work in small sections (about the size of a dinner plate). Use moderate pressure to wipe the vinyl. If you've got red dust in the texture, use your brush to agitate the cleaner in a circular motion.
Dry Wipe
Follow up immediately with a second, dry microfibre towel to pick up the emulsified dirt. If the towel comes away red or brown, go again. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, if you don't dry it off, the dirt just settles back into the grain.
The Steering Wheel and Knobs
These are the grimiest parts. Use a slightly stronger dilution of cleaner here to get rid of the oils from your hands. (Trust me, it's pretty gross what comes off a steering wheel after a year).
Clean the Instrument Cluster
Be incredibly gentle here. These plastics scratch if you even look at them funny. Use a fresh, clean towel and almost no pressure.
Apply the Protectant
Once the surface is clean and bone dry, apply your UV protectant to a foam applicator. Wipe it on evenly. I personally prefer a matte or satin finish, high gloss looks cheap and reflects the sun back into your eyes while driving.
Let it Dwell
Give the protectant about 3-5 minutes to actually bond with the surface. This is the part most people skip, but it's where the actual protection happens.
The Final Buff
Take a clean microfibre and lightly buff the entire surface. This removes any excess 'greasiness' and ensures an even, factory-look finish. If it's still sticky, you've used too much product.
Clean the Windscreen Interior
Cleaning the dash usually leaves a bit of 'gas-off' or overspray on the glass. Give the inside of your windscreen a proper clean now or you'll see every smear the next time you're driving into the sun.
Pro Tip: Dealing with Red Dust
Watch Out
Pro Tip: The Door Seals
Keeping it Mint
Common Questions
Can I use baby wipes on my dash?
How do I get rid of that 'sticky' feeling on older dashes?
My dash is already cracked. Can I fix it?
Is Armoral actually bad for my car?
Watch Out
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