What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, the Australian sun is absolutely brutal on plastic trim, especially if you're parking outside or heading out toward the red dust. This guide is for anyone who's sick of seeing their pride and joy look aged because of faded bumpers and mirrors. I'm going to walk you through everything from deep cleaning to ceramic restoration so you can get that factory-fresh look back.
The Reality of Aussie Sun vs. Plastic
The Essential Gear List
What You'll Need
Preparation: The Most Important Part
The Deep Clean
Give the car a proper wash first. Don't just wipe the trim. You need to get all the grit and bird droppings off the entire area so you're not dragging dirt into the plastic while you work.
De-greasing
Spray your APC or degreaser directly onto the plastic. Use your brush to agitate it. You'll see the suds turn brown or gray, that's years of road film and old silicone coming out.
Rinse and Dry (Completely)
Rinse it off thoroughly. Now, wait. Then wait some more. Water hides in the gaps between the plastic and the paint. If a drop of water runs out while you're applying the restorer, it'll ruin the finish.
The Magic Eraser Trick
If you've got white marks from old car wax on your black plastic, wet a Magic Eraser and gently rub those spots. It'll lift the wax out of the grain where a brush can't reach.
IPA Wipe Down
Wipe the trim with your Isopropyl Alcohol mix. This removes any leftover soaps or oils. The plastic should look 'dead' and dry after this. That's exactly what we want.
Masking Off
Tape off the paint surrounding the trim. I've seen blokes try to be 'precise' without tape. One slip and you've got a permanent black smudge on your silver paint. Just tape it, mate.
While you're here...
The Restoration Process
Check the Temp
Touch the plastic. If it's too hot to hold your hand on, it's too hot to work. Wait for the arvo or pull it into the garage.
Shake the Product
Most restorers like Solution Finish have pigments that settle at the bottom. Give it a proper shake for a good minute.
Apply to the Pad
Put a few drops (not a puddle) onto your foam applicator. A little goes a long way.
Initial Application
Work the product into the plastic using small, overlapping circular motions. You want to ensure it's getting into the texture of the plastic.
Leveling the Product
After a minute or two (depending on the product instructions), take a clean microfibre and lightly wipe over the area. This removes the excess and prevents a greasy look.
Check for Blotches
Look at the trim from different angles. If it looks uneven, apply a second very thin coat immediately to even it out.
Wiper Cowls
These are the hardest because of the vents. Use a small detailing brush to get the restorer into the little slats. Don't leave pools of liquid in there.
Mirror Bases
These often fade faster than the mirrors themselves. Take your time here as they are usually high-visibility areas.
Door Handles
If your handles are plastic, make sure you buff them dry. Nobody wants a handful of trim restorer when they try to get in the car.
The 'Wait' Period
Once finished, let the car sit. Most of these products need 4-24 hours to fully cure before they get wet.
Remove Tape
Pull the painters tape off at a sharp angle to ensure a clean line.
Final Inspection
Use a torch to check for any 'high spots' or spots where you might have bumped the paint. Clean up the paint with a bit of quick detailer if needed.
Watch Out
Pro Tips from the Shed
What's Worth Your Hard-Earned?
Advanced Technique: The 'Hybrid' Method
Keeping it Looking Mint
Common Questions I Get Asked
Can I use peanut butter to fix faded trim?
How long will a restorer last?
My trim is turning white, is it too late?
Is it okay to get restorer on the glass?
Can I use this on interior plastics?
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